18 replies to this topic

[tiger99]

Glad you are making progress. The worst is over now, you just have to fit the new pots when they arrive.

You should fit a new oil flinger, if you can get one, as it does helptoprotect the diff seals. It is really a dirt flinger. But they are said to have been unobtainable for some years, and most people seem to do without them.

[TDOD]

when the pot joints come do i just put them back in the diff and just push the shaft in to the joint or do i have to put the cage on the shaft?

[tiger99]

The cage is in the joint already, and the rubber boot is fitted, between the pot outer and the inner, so there is nothing at all to do to the joint. The end of the inner star shaped member protrudes throuigh the rubber boot, so you don't even have to deal with boot clips if you don't dismantle it.

Just make sure that the end going into the diff is clean and oiled, so it does not try to abrade the seals, and grease the end of the shaft so it will not rust and will come out again when required (Castrol LM is ok on the splines, but NOT in the joint itself, which will already be filled with the special grease).

Push the joint into the diff, turning slightly tohelp it engage the splines.

Ensure that the shaft is the right way round (outer, wheel end has two grooves), ideally with a new locking clip, but the old one can be re-used if not damaged, push it into the pot joint, and give it a good few thumps with a soft hammer or lump of wood to ensure the shaft has engaged its locking clip in teh pot, and teh pot has engaged in its clip in the diff.

Don't pull on the shaft! You would split the pot joint, and have to take the rubber boot off to reassemble it.

The outer CV goes on to the shaft in the same way, but the boot has to be on first, and it has to have the boot securing clip fitted once assembled. But I think you know how to do the CV already. Again, give it a good thump to lock it, and then the hub goes on.

[thudson331]

Any chance you took pictures?