16 replies to this topic

[AntsClubby]

Hey,
Im rebuilding my engine...supposed to be a 1293 A+ but im a little wary for some reason!

The engine number is 99H997P ... An A+ 998 according to a site i found.

Ive took the head off now...the pistons are named/numbered but i dont know what they mean or how to find out!

For example...Looking down on the engine from above, flywheel to the left, thermostat to the right ive called the cylinders 1,2,3 and 4

No1 has...Front G1 20528 H34 stamped on it
No2,3 and 4 have Front G1 20528 H36 stamped on them

What do these numbers mean?...and do i have a 1293 /

Cheers
Ant

Edited by AntsClubby, 22 March 2012 - 10:29 PM.

[lrostoke]

assuming that engine code is on a plate on the engine, then its a 998

also google that piston code and 998 seems to be the most common term popping up

and easy check look at the back of the block are there 2 covers near the top with a single bolt in each, if so 99% its a 998

Edited by lrostoke, 22 March 2012 - 10:35 PM.

[AntsClubby]

Thats not looking too good is it!
Think i may have been done by a well known auction site!

If ive got a std 998 then whats the best way to make some more power, will it cost loads to make it a 1293 or do i need a 1275 to do that?
Whats the norm option for a 998 A+?

Thanks for your reply pal
Ant

[AntsClubby]

Do you mean the 2x covers that hide the pushrods??
YEP...im looking at them as i post (

[Cooperman]

Just measure the bore & stroke of the engine. If it's 70.6 mm bore and 81.3 mm stroke then it's a 1275.

[lrostoke]

you got a 998 then, I could be wrong but there was a 1275 with cover plates but pretty rare and combined with the other evidence you haven't got one.

Yes you need a 1275 to go 1293.

more power is always more money.

998 options useally mean starting with stage one kit, around the £180 mark

after that its better cylinder heads , camshafts.rebores etc.

[AntsClubby]

Just measure the bore & stroke of the engine. If it's 70.6 mm bore and 81.3 mm stroke then it's a 1275.

Could i do that (stroke) by measuring inside pistons 2 or 3 when 1 and 4 are at TDC if you get me?

What would a std 998's bore and stroke be

Cheers pal

[Cooperman]

The 1275 with cam chest cover plates was the Cooper 'S' from 1964 to 1971.

A 998 has 64.6 mm bore & 76.2 mm stroke.

Edited by Cooperman, 22 March 2012 - 10:53 PM.

[AntsClubby]

Well im very much doubting for £180 i got a classic cooper engine so looks like im a boggo 998! A clean 998 but im still gutted!
Im wondering wether to bother now and just tune my 1098 that came with the clubby

[lrostoke]

seems pointless measuring it, 99h engine number, tappet covers, a piston number that seems to bring up 998 when googled.

[AntsClubby]

seems pointless measuring it, 99h engine number, tappet covers, a piston number that seems to bring up 998 when googled.

You dont need to be carol vorderman to add this one up eh mate!
Gutted!

[lrostoke]

yeah bit of a bummer, how did you pay, although if you've stripped it could be a bit late for any come back on the seller.

[AntsClubby]

Unfortunately Cash on collection, guy even said the mechanic who he bought it from "said" it was a 1293, he never actually said it was... its abit cheeky on his part as im sure he knew but i really should have swatted up on the engine numbers etc before i went to buy it.
Live and learn eh!

If i was to chuck say £500/£750 at it what kind of gains would i be looking at and wheres best to spend the money...if its worth it???

[Cooperman]

You could bore it to +0.080" making it 1060 cc, try to find a 12g295 998 Cooper head, use Hastings flat-top pistons, fit a better cam such as a Kent 266 or MG Metro (very similar), fit a 3-into-1 ex. manifold with an RC40 exhaust and an alloy inlet with an HIF38 or HS4 carburettor. That would give, if built carefully and accurately with about 10.2:1 compression ratio around 60 to 62 bhp at the flywheel.
That's an outline specification and there are some other detail things you would need to do.

Edited by Cooperman, 22 March 2012 - 11:33 PM.

[AntsClubby]

You could bore it to +0.080" making it 1060 cc, try to find a 12g295 998 Cooper head, use Hastings flat-top pistons, fit a better cam such as a Kent 266 or MG Metro (very similar), fit a 3-into-1 ex. manifold and an alloy inlet with an HIF38 or HS4 carburettor. That would give, if built care4fully and accurately with about 10.2:1 compression ratio around 60 to 62 bhp at the flywheel.

What kind of price would i be looking at for all that then? Would it be within my £500-750 i mentioned?
In your honest and 7,675 post opinion!ha! What would you do?

Ive got a part stripped 998, a removed std ( i guess) 1098 and a budget of £750...plus a very messed up head!