21 replies to this topic

[AntsClubby]

Hey,
Im building my 1st mini engine, it a 1990 1275 A+, std as far as i know.
Im not aiming for lots of power with this one, the bulk of my budgets going on the body( there wasnt much) and interior( there wasnt any!)
Just want a nice, strong engine that will last me well.

Ive got the whole engine stripped now, head off (but not took apart yet), block and gearbox seperated, crank off and pistons out.
Ive only got as far now as cleaning all the old gaskets off.

Next i was planning to remove the core plugs i think there called, im guessing this would let me get to all the muck and clean it out?
Would i be best to clean this myself ( whats best to use) or get a garage to hot wash it for me so its spotless? Any ideas on an approx price?

After its clean whats next? Should it get the eqv of the heads port and polish, is it honed or something?? Sorry if i sound dumb!Ha! Or can it just be re plugged and painted?
I live nr to Worcester but dont mind traveling if theres someone recommended if i do need work/ advised to check it out before refitting...ive never heard the engine run so im abit cautious...looks nice and clean inside though but then again its the 1st ive seen!

Im going to just clean up the gearbox then give it to a specialist for a look, not messing with all these cogs!ha!
The head will be the last bit i do so ill ask for more help then...

Whats the full recommended kit list ill need, all being well (no extra work) just for the bottom end side of the rebuild, plus an approx cost if poss
I have no idea if the bearings, washers, big ends, bolts etc can be reused so please treat me as dumb! ;o)

Thanks in advance
Ant

Edited by AntsClubby, 27 March 2012 - 08:32 PM.

[AntsClubby]

Engine No 12A2BG03
Pistons 21962

Just incase )

[valve bounce]

first thing is have a really good look at the bores, are then any deep scratches (can you feel them with your finger nail) and is there a lip at the top of the bore. if no to both of these then a quick glaze bust and new piston rings will do. if you answered yes to the scratches or lip then it will need a rebore with new pistons.

then the crank shaft, do all the journals look smooth and uniform, any gouges, marks,rust,scratches, uneven wear? if yes then it'll need a regrind if no then just a new set of shells and thrusts will be ok, look on the back of the shells it'll say STD, 010, 020,030 depending if its standard of if it already been ground then just order a set the same and check the clearances using plastic gauge on your trial build.

other than that just make sure you wash the block out really well and without fail fit a new oil pump, a freind of mine didnt do this when he rebuilt his and 5000miles later i had to fit it instead just 1000miles later i had to strip the crank out and re shell it again. you have been warned

good luck, anything else just ask
rob

[AntsClubby]

Theres no apparent scratches, apart from tiny, almost un-noticeable criss cross type ones, i cant feel any kind of lip although its not perfectly smooth...it looks really good to be honest but like i said ive never seen a "bad one", ill take some photos tomorrow and see if our views match!ha!
Whats a glaze burst? Could i ask for that in a workshop, is it kind of a bore deep clean?

Journals? Im not sure what they are.
The 1/2 round, i think there shell bearings? some of them have wear marks, not rusty but a different colour to the main bearing and not all in the same place, i guess you could call it uneven, again ill take some photos but im guessing maybe a regrind then, ill also check the shells for numbers too.

So best case...

Full gaskets and seals
Oil pump
Piston rings
Bearings...are the ones at the far ends of the engine the big end, and others main bearings?
Thrust washers

Worse case...

All above, plus...

Rebore
Pistons
Crank regrind

Also do i really need ARP bolts? Is that just for 1380 madness?? )
Plus, am i right to think i should change the flywheel, head and conrod bolts too?

Cheers

[valve bounce]

i would use new big end/ conrod bolt yes, i also recommend replacing the timing chain

[icklemini]

Not being 'funny' but just pulling the engine apart is a bit nieve - if it wasnt broke, then dont fix it and all that.. What was the actual problem with it? / What are your intentions with it?

Not trying to discourage your obvious enthusiasm but if you cant find an 'experienced' buddy to help you out, then best bet really is to take the bits to an engine reconditioners and get them measured accuratly and decide whats needed to be done.... they can often supply the necessary bearings too and build it as necessary - You will learn a lot and avoid any potential costly mistakes!

[Cooperman]

Not being 'funny' but just pulling the engine apart is a bit nieve - if it wasnt broke, then dont fix it and all that.. What was the actual problem with it? / What are your intentions with it?

Not trying to discourage your obvious enthusiasm but if you cant find an 'experienced' buddy to help you out, then best bet really is to take the bits to an engine reconditioners and get them measured accuratly and decide whats needed to be done.... they can often supply the necessary bearings too and build it as necessary - You will learn a lot and avoid any potential costly mistakes!

Agree 100%. If you don't get it absolutely right it could end up costing a fortune to put right. I build a lot of engines and in the last 2 years I've had to correct two badly re-built engines which would not run properly. One was a turbo which blew up after 4 miles because the guy who built it did not know how to work out compression ratios.
By the way, the pistons you'll need are AE 21253. The 21962 noted above are old Rover pistons which are NLA.

[AntsClubby]

I bought the engine off ebay about 8 months ago for £150, i have no idea wether it runs or not, the condition of the internals etc...i dont see it as nieve...the way i see it id rather pull it apart and struggle to rebuild it and learn in the process, ive always wanted to build an engine.

Wouldnt i be best to learn on a cheap A-series rather than turbo V6?
Everyones gotta start somewhere and besides "a man whos never made a mistake never made sod all"ha!

My plan was always to take it apart, get it checked out by a garage then if alls ok rebuild it, any areas i think i might struggle with ill just ask for help.

You can read up on stuff all you like but until you get your hands dirty youll never know!

Ant

[Rich1275]

I would agree with the above coments if your new to it or unsure then best to get it check out by a machine shop. i would only rebore and grind the crank if you have too. you wouldnt necessarly need a grind if there a 'marks' on the journals they maybe be polished out by the shop if they are light. wouldnt jump the gun and have it all done if its not really needed .

[mini-luke]

Where abouts in worcs are you? Really, you need someone experienced to take a look, or take it to a machine shop (http://www.bromsgrov...com/classic.php have been recommended here).

[icklemini]

I bought the engine off ebay about 8 months ago for £150, i have no idea wether it runs or not, the condition of the internals etc...i dont see it as nieve...the way i see it id rather pull it apart and struggle to rebuild it and learn in the process, ive always wanted to build an engine.

Wouldnt i be best to learn on a cheap A-series rather than turbo V6?
Everyones gotta start somewhere and besides "a man whos never made a mistake never made sod all"ha!

My plan was always to take it apart, get it checked out by a garage then if alls ok rebuild it, any areas i think i might struggle with ill just ask for help.

You can read up on stuff all you like but until you get your hands dirty youll never know!

Ant

Really i wasnt having a dig or being negative:

Putting an engine back together can be quite expensive... and the 'first time' results can leave you feeling a little disappointed

Sadly the a-series isnt a cheap engine (to buy or build properly) - they havent been made for over 12 years...

If you wanted an engine to take apart I have a 1.4 pug engine you could have free of charge!

I think it would be worth really reading the (proper) haynes manual: it will give you the tolerencies, torque settings, terminology etc (ie it will tell you what the big ends and the main bearings are for example)

Any old engine will be worn... and you will need to decide to a) leave it as it is (in which case why pull it apart?), or b) to repair and make good.
For example: putting new rings into an old bore will work... but its not 100%, new bearings on a worn crank will work.... but its not 100%

An engine tear down has to be done carefully: con rod caps have to stay with the rod it came off in the correct orientation for example...

So, lecture over:

Have a read through:
Haynes Manual: http://www.amazon.co...2967028&sr=8-16
Tuning BLs A series: http://www.amazon.co...32967089&sr=1-1
Not an A-Series in sight but an excellent read: http://www.amazon.co.../ref=pd_sim_b_3

Tools: Some specialist stuff is needed (again depending on how far you wish to go) : Micrometers, Bore Gauge, Torque wrench, Feeler blades, DTI & Stand......

[AntsClubby]

I didnt think of it as you having a go mate...mrs more or less said same thing!ha!

Im prob being abit vauge...im not a complete noob with engineering, just engine building.
Ive already got the haynes book and the haynes mini restoration book, i followed them to take it apart.

All the pistons are numbered in the order i removed them along with the bolts and con rod end caps in seperate marked bags (not the correct way round though sorry i didnt realise that! Is there a way to re use them or am i stuffed?)
The other parts are all stored together in bags with all the bolts ive took out, push rods on card numbered.
Ive made a list as i go of the parts im changing, due to either how they look or just because its recommended.
I didnt just get the spanners out clarkson style!ha!

The main reason i took it apart was to just inspect and replace whats needed (bolt on bits by me, specialist stuff by the pros)
I thought by stripping and cleaning up myself i could save a few quid incase it needs any work.
Fair enough i may not have needed to take the pistons out etc but ill live and learn!

Im not kidding myself about my skills but its something ive always wanted to do, if i wasnt an electronic engineer id have been a mechanic!ha!
Ive got a torque wrench, all af and metric sockets, hub/flywheel puller, feeler gauges, old micrometer....looking at the small engine stand in machine mart (£50ish)
Im planning to find a good workshop to have a look at what ive got and get the necessary work done...if any.

Could you give me some advise on what i should ask to be checked or should i just say ive got a block, crank and pistons id like inspecting?

Thanks again for the help )

[AntsClubby]

I live about 5mins from BES....ill give them a ring.
Cheers

[AntsClubby]

Not being 'funny' but just pulling the engine apart is a bit nieve - if it wasnt broke, then dont fix it and all that.. What was the actual problem with it? / What are your intentions with it?

Not trying to discourage your obvious enthusiasm but if you cant find an 'experienced' buddy to help you out, then best bet really is to take the bits to an engine reconditioners and get them measured accuratly and decide whats needed to be done.... they can often supply the necessary bearings too and build it as necessary - You will learn a lot and avoid any potential costly mistakes!

If id have known you before i would have nipped round with my engine...ive been working in NN5, mainly south oval on the big estate nr BP garage installing solar panels, im only there til friday though so bit late now!

[yousmeg]

Wear protective gloves when you take the old piston rings off. They will cut your fingers to shreds. I found out the hard way after doing them all and looking down at a couple of mutilated fingers