17 replies to this topic

[jonny d]

HI everyone Driving home tonight I broke the bolt in the top engine steady(the one in the cranked bracket) I already have the repair bracket on the car as I broke the main bolt a while back, now both are gone and the bolt on the transfer case looks like it will be next. I am thinking of taking out the remote servo and getting a drill in there to drill them out is there anything to watch out for whilst doing this please as I have not done this job before thank you

[Cooperman]

You need to take the engine out, drill out the broken studs/bolts and Heli-Coil the block. That really is the onyway to do it properly and effectively.

[jonny d]

really is it that much work

[Cooperman]

It's virtually impossible to drill in squarely to fit the Heli-Coil(s) with the engine in the car.
It takes about 3 hours to remove the engine, one hour (max) to drill & Heli-Coil and 4 hours to re-fit the engine.
It really is the only way to do the job, and a lot of us have been there, I know I have more than once.

[tiger99]

I think the problem is that there may not be enough room for a normal drill, without taking the engine out. A right angle drill, or attachment on a normal one, may be able to get in there, if you are very careful.

If the bolt simply sheared, and there is no reason to think that the thread is tight, I would cautiously try an easyout, but don't apply enough torque to break it, or you WILL be taking the engine out, and finding an emgineering works who can use spark erosion to remove the remains.

If the threads are damaged, as Cooperman says, they will need to be drilled to the correct size and helicoiled. The helicoil kit comes with the correct drill, tap and inserts. You will need to helicoil to get back to 5/16" UNF if the thread is damaged, because there is no slightly larger bolt that can be used. M8 is much the same as 5/16", and the next sizes up, 3/8" or M10, would need the sleeve for the bushes bored out more than is possible.

Try not to break through into the waterways. You should be able to feel the drill go through the end of the bolt, and be able to stop it, but if you do break through, it is not a total disaster, you will just need RTV or PTFE tape, or some other suitable sealant, on the bolt when you refit it.

Repair brackets for the engine steadies are a complete waste of time. They are invariably badly designed, and will suffer fatigue fracture soomer or later. It is best to fix what you have, and find out why they are breaking. You really need upper and lower steadies, engine mounts in good condition, good bushes in the steady bars (poly in one end is ok, poly in both is too hard and will make things break, rubber both ends is just about ok, if in good condition). The bolts really MUST be grade 8.8, or if you can get them, 10.9, and torqued up correctly. The cranked bracket must have its correct spacer (or substitute washers) so it fits snugly, and there must be a large washer, or the original plate, between bush and engine block.

Other aftermarket steadies are also useless if used in the wrong combination. You must have an upper and lower steady, as close as possible to being in line vertically, otherwise the torque makes the engine wiggle. A top steady at one end and bottom at the other, for instance, is very bad, and will quickly kill the mounts and the exhaust. There are a lot of stupid gimmicks on the market, even now. The standard upper and lower steadies are virtually in line and do the job adequately.

If assembled carefully, and bushes replaced when the wear (20,000 miles or more) they should never break.

I should add, in view of Cooperman's comment, that it is possible to get devices which hold the drill at right angles to the surface of the block, but it still does need a lot of care.

Edited by tiger99, 03 April 2012 - 09:20 PM.

[Cooperman]

I always think it's a pity they ever did away with the alloy remote gear change system as used on the Cooper & 'S' and certain other models. That rear linkage mounting certainly stopped a lot of engine rock. My 'S' has the standard top steady, an 'Ultimate Engine Steady' and the remote gear linkage rear mounting with a modified heavy duty rubber mount. It just all works so well.

[R1minimagic]

Which repair kit have you got fitted now?

[TopCatCustom]

As this happens a fair bit, would it not be prudent to drill and re-tap the steady threads in the block to a slightly larger size?

[Cooperman]

As this happens a fair bit, would it not be prudent to drill and re-tap the steady threads in the block to a slightly larger size?

Then you would need 3/8" UNF bolts and a sleeve for the steady bar bush to take the bigger dia. bolt.

[TopCatCustom]

Yes but what I meant was would it be a good thing to do and would the meat around that part of the block be ok!

[Cooperman]

Yes but what I meant was would it be a good thing to do and would the meat around that part of the block be ok!

It couldn't do any harm, but you would need to make a new centre bush for the bush - not difficult - and drill out the holes in the bracket to suit.
Actually the only reason it's an issue is because people (me included!) have over-tightened them and sheared the bolt(s).

[TopCatCustom]

Ok, I wasn't sure if it was a general fatigue thing.

[jonny d]

thanks everyone for their comments the threads are ok just the bolts have snapped flush to the block and the repair bracket is the one where the main bolt has broken( ie minispares)

[Cooperman]

You do really need to do the job properly. Pity you are so far away as I have all the kit to do it once the engine is lifted about 2 ft.

[jonny d]

thanks for the offer cooperman yeah pity your so far away, I will be attempting to drill it out tomorrow will post how I get on will also fit an ultimate steady i took off to do a headgasket awhile ago, to take some of the stress away from the broken one is this a good idea