17 replies to this topic

[jameslearwood]

Part of my rebuild i am refitting my dizzy its a 1275cc 1993 carb mini.

Do i need to dismantle the dizzy or is it best left alone if it was working fine?

When i refitted i lightly oiled the end of the spindle to the bit im guesssing connects to the camshaft does anything else need lubing?

i dont have markings to position the body to the block correctly how can i ensure it is lined up correctly.

The engine should be at tdc i followed andyminimads engine build thread.

let me know what you think.

[jameslearwood]

[jameslearwood]

the point

not sure which dizzy i have except its lucas.

[jameslearwood]

oh and this bit was with the dizzy not sure why i did it what and where does it go?

[lrostoke]

Think thats the rotor arm of the 65D electronic dizzy.

The dizzy will only fit one way, your drive gear looks about right in the block.

look at how the dizzy cap will fit, and with the vac unit on the left No 1 HT lead should be roughly 2 oclock position

Point the rotor arm so its facing roughly 2 oclock the place where No 1 HT is on the dizzy cap,then slide the dizzy into place, twist the rotor from side to side until the dizzy slides fully into place.

If it was working ok just refit

I'd replace that rotor arm though looks pretty XXXX
you will need to retime the dizzy though

EDIT: Steve... language.

Edited by dklawson, 10 April 2012 - 12:12 PM.

[jameslearwood]

Thats great cheers.

retime the dizzy. Is this with the strobe timer? do i need to do it before intial startup or can it wait till rolling road?

[lrostoke]

you need to get it running before you strobe time it. If you fit the dizzy and then when fitted turn the body so that the HT lead for No 1 is inline with the rotor arm, with the engine at TDC..good chance it will start.
If it doesn't if you can get some body to turn the key whilst you turn the dizzy slowly in each direction, you should hit the sweet spot where it starts.
Just make sure you don't have damp hands :) HT leads can give off a good shock


Then you use a strobe.

Edited by lrostoke, 10 April 2012 - 01:31 PM.

[jaydee]

I'd advance it to the next tooth before starting, i've been using 4-8 deg static advance and always started first time (or at least with fuelling problems not ignition).

Be carefull with HT leads, ground strap and battery cable, i nearly fried myself once when the battery cable snapped..

[jameslearwood]

cheers steve will do that.

jaydee sorry advance what the crank pulley? what purpose does this serve?

[lrostoke]

The timing won't actually be TDC at rest, so what Jaydee is saying is turn your crank so the 2nd small pointer lines up with the notch in the pulley. And then point the rotor arm at No HT lead.
To be honest your not going to get an exact static timing point with the electronic dizzy, so you may as well fit as close as poss then twiddle with it whilst cranking the engine.
As you turn the dizzy you'll hear the engine try start and when its close to going

Edited by lrostoke, 10 April 2012 - 04:38 PM.

[jaydee]

Exactly :)

[jameslearwood]

righto much obliged and here's the stupid noobie question whats cranking the engine?

[lrostoke]

turning the key and trying to start it.

2 man job, one in car turning key and fiddling with choke, other just slightly adjusting dizzy back and forth till it fires

[jaydee]

And dont forget, always check for oil pressure before first start (prime te oil pump and run it on starter, check if oil pressure raises).

[jameslearwood]

righto cheers people