

Stance (Aka Ride Height)
#1
Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:27 PM

#2
Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:28 PM

#3
Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:30 PM

#4
Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:38 PM
#5
Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:39 PM

After with it dropped

Edit, better picture
Edited by mymini007, 10 April 2012 - 12:41 PM.
#6
Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:59 PM
#7
Posted 10 April 2012 - 01:48 PM
Withy the damper top mountings undone drop the radius arms right down to gain access to the rubber spring cones and prise them out. You may find the 'trumpet' is stuck in the rubber spring, but you can spray with penetrating fluid and prise the trumpets off.
Whilst off check the plastic cups in the front of the radius arms. It's a good idea to change these as well.
#8
Posted 10 April 2012 - 02:12 PM
Old stuff - with shock removed, (fuel tank out to do this bit)

All off

Back together - with new shocks fitted and fuel tank back in

If you have a haynes follow the guide in there or I am sure there are lots of threads on here, the hardest bit will be getting the seized nuts undone, start soaking in wd40 or similar as soos as you can. I would do it all together, cones and Hi lows, then you only have to do it once.
Edited by mymini007, 10 April 2012 - 02:17 PM.
#9
Posted 10 April 2012 - 02:16 PM
#10
Posted 10 April 2012 - 06:53 PM
Rubber springs are not cheap (Use only genuine ones!) so there are some things you can try before replacing them.
I suggest that you first do a visual check on the suspension - look for signs that the trumpets are damaged or have been shortened (saw marks on the narrow end). Check the rubber springs; they should be generally spherical, if they are clearly flattened they probably need replaced.
I would replace the knuckles and nylon cups before spending money on the springs. The knuckles are cheep but replacement involves removing the springs trumpets etc. If this does not fix the problem and you do have to replace the springs then at least the job will be easier as you will have already released all the seized parts etc.
I personally would fix the root problem rather than disguise it by fitting hi-los.
Edited by jimnali, 10 April 2012 - 06:53 PM.
#11
Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:20 PM
#12
Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:32 PM
Took me about 2 hours to to the rears
Old stuff - with shock removed, (fuel tank out to do this bit)
All off
Back together - with new shocks fitted and fuel tank back in
If you have a haynes follow the guide in there or I am sure there are lots of threads on here, the hardest bit will be getting the seized nuts undone, start soaking in wd40 or similar as soos as you can. I would do it all together, cones and Hi lows, then you only have to do it once.
You can see from those pictures how the Hilo fits, cone shaped thing that is mounted in the subframe thats fitted to the rubber dohnut moves back and forwards as the radius arm moves up and down, the bottom pic you can see where the trumpet (cone thing) was a silver threaded bar and a nut, thats a hilo basically an adjustable trumpet, what you said attaches to the radius arm and mounts up into the wheel arch is a damper which damps the springiness of the car.
Hope that makes sence and sorry to quote all those pictures but its easier to read all in one post :)
#13
Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:55 PM
#14
Posted 10 April 2012 - 08:01 PM
So is the damper just for rebound kinda thing? Or can the damper also control ride height as hi-lo's look like dampers to me?
#15
Posted 10 April 2012 - 08:17 PM
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