Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Removing front subframe tower bolt


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 minilady

minilady

    On The Road

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 49 posts

Posted 02 March 2006 - 03:46 AM

I need to remove one of the tower bolts on my 1981 mini because the rubber top bush has disintegrated, and the metal around the top bush needs welding.

I have a 1 5/16 socket, an extension bar, and a 1 foot right-angle handle thing (technical term unknown :D) to apply twisting forces.

But no matter how hard I pull, I can't get the bolt undone, and the handle thing, being one-sided, puts a lot of strain and bending on the socket. I suspect the bolt has rusted into the subframe?

Should I be using a T bar instead, to get a more even force? Is it usually difficult to undo thse bolts? I've tried hitting the top of the bolt really hard to loosen it - is there anything else I can do?

#2 Wil_h

Wil_h

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,244 posts

Posted 02 March 2006 - 06:51 AM

If they've never been off before (or not for a while) then they're usually very tight.

I assume that the 1 foot right-angle thing is a ratchet. Better in this case to use a T-bar with an extention on. I've got a piece of very thick wall tube as an extention.

If you have a friendly garage then they might undo it for you then just nip it up to get you home, can't imagine anyone would charge you for that.

Wil

#3 m1n1

m1n1

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 739 posts
  • Local Club: I'm unsociable

Posted 02 March 2006 - 11:06 AM

[attachment=13195:attachment]yes, you need something longer to get the leverage. I use a torque wrench to undo these little beauties.

#4 minilady

minilady

    On The Road

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 49 posts

Posted 02 March 2006 - 11:43 AM

The 1 foot right angle thing isn't a ratchet - it simply has a swivel joint. I haven't a clue what it's called, but it was part of my socket set. If you pull on the end of the bar, it not only applies a twisting force, but also tries to bend the extension piece that fits into the socket. I think a T bar would give me a more even turning effect, but I don't have one. Time to invest in some better tools!

I'm wary of putting too much force on it in case I shear off the tower bolt. Then I really would be in the poo, because I am not up to the job of getting the subframe out.

Am I likely to shear off the tower bolt, or are they really tough?

#5 Purple Tom

Purple Tom

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,921 posts
  • Location: Derbyshire
  • Local Club: TMF

Posted 02 March 2006 - 11:52 AM

Its very doubtful you'll shear the tower bolt, its thick steel and pretty strong. You could try squirting a bit of penetrant down between the bulkhead and subframe towers, its possible some would get down inside the threads.

My advice would be to extend your breaker bar, I needed an 18" long one to get mine undone. You already seem aware of the possibility of damaging your tools, so be careful of cracking the outer wall of the socket, particularly if it is of the 'multi-hex' design. If possible try to get hold of an impact socket, these have a hexagonal design, and much thicker walls, so the possibility of cracking is much less. Similarly the chances of slipping is reduced, so rounding off the head of the bolt isn't so much of an issue.

Also, for reference, try to avoid using a ratchet to undo tight nuts/bolts (I know Minilady isn't, but some people do!). A ratchet is a convenience tool, designed to speed up the removal of nuts, not as a tool to take serious abuse. Inside the head of the ratchet are small pawls and ring gear, and big forces through there can sometimes result in them breaking, usually rather violently - with the result of your knuckles/elbow/head/shoulder/whatever suddenly accelerating towards the nearest solid object - usually something sharp and steel - which is pretty painful!! So when undoing tight fittings, try to use a breaker bar with a tubular extension if necessary, its much safer, and means your ratchet lasts much longer! :D

#6 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 02 March 2006 - 12:46 PM

[attachment=13195:attachment]yes, you need something longer to get the leverage. I use a torque wrench to undo these little beauties.


And that's just completely fubar'd the calibration of your torque wrench...

As Mini84 has referred to, ratchets and torque wrenches are delicate pieces of equipment, and should only be used for one purpose...the one they were designed for..

Get a Breaker Bar, or T bar with extension, for undoing bolts which are tight, obviously avoid using them for doing things up, as that's what the torque wrench is for :D

#7 minilady

minilady

    On The Road

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 49 posts

Posted 02 March 2006 - 12:59 PM

Thanks for the assurance, and I'll try to get some WD40 down the tower bolt.

What's a "breaker bar"? Is is T shaped or L shaped?

I got my 1 5/16 socket from DSN classics. It's a chunky, black, mean-looking beastie, and I'm pretty sure it was hexagonal impact grade. I've broken several of my multi-hex sockets on this mini (wow, I must be strong :D), getting seat belt bolts out for instance, so I would only buy impact grade sockets from now on.

#8 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 02 March 2006 - 01:23 PM

Breaker bar... http://www.toolmix.c...d=931&pid=58344

Also with sockets and minis, first use imperial and not metric, and then when you start use what you can get hold of, but as you break bits, replace them with reputable tools, Snap-on, facom, britool, and the likes... Halfords proffesional tools are pretty good too.

#9 m1n1

m1n1

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 739 posts
  • Local Club: I'm unsociable

Posted 02 March 2006 - 04:09 PM

WELL WELL WELL. its maximum torque figure on the scale is oh! look.. 200 lb/f !!! relax . its easily capapable of undoing this which, lets face it won't be THAT tight. been there, done it, got quite a few t shirts.

#10 alloying

alloying

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 02 March 2006 - 04:16 PM

An impact driver would make short work of it (if you can get it to fit).

#11 GeorgeMini

GeorgeMini

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 172 posts
  • Location: surrey

Posted 18 August 2013 - 11:43 AM

does anyone know the size of the tower bolt head? Im guessing you can use a 1 5/16 socket from what I have read above? just double checking.. cheers



#12 jaydee

jaydee

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,565 posts

Posted 18 August 2013 - 11:53 AM

1" 5/16

remember to NEVER use a torque wrench to undo things

Torque top bolts up to 50lbs, dont overtighten



#13 GeorgeMini

GeorgeMini

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 172 posts
  • Location: surrey

Posted 18 August 2013 - 12:35 PM

cheers :)



#14 HarrysMini

HarrysMini

    I do not have short legs!!!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,352 posts
  • Location: .

Posted 18 August 2013 - 01:04 PM

I used a box spanner levered with a very large screw driver. 
I put a load of WD40 on it first, try and make it penetrate under the bolt head, don't just spray it on to as that will do nothing.

Edit: just realised this thread is from 2006. Ignore my comment.

Edited by HarrysMini, 18 August 2013 - 01:05 PM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users