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Wheel Hub, Brakes And Suspension


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#1 jameslearwood

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 04:34 PM

1993 rover rio.

Hope your all grand just after picking peoples brains regarding best options for servicing the brakes, suspension etc.

My engine is out and im basically tidying up the engine bay and surrounding bodywork including chaning the subby mounts to solid. As i am doing all this i am thinking about undoing the suspension tower bolts so i can lower the subframe down and get access to all the nooks and crannies on the bodywork.

If i am doing this what should i replace or service pretty sure its rubber cone. Also is it worth upgrading parts i.e dampners/brake's etc?

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Any pointers would be really appreciated

#2 RawlinsGTR

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 04:38 PM

As i am doing all this i am thinking about undoing the suspension tower bolts so i can lower the subframe down and get access to all the nooks and crannies on the bodywork.


blatantly gonna turn into a full rebuild.. it always does :D

#3 RawlinsGTR

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 06:11 PM

To answer your question tho (since no-one else has and I feel bad for just commenting :proud: )

check for play in all the moving parts to do with the hub; ball-joints, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, etc etc. If i was doing what you were doing and had the time/money to, I'd replace all those parts anyway.

your discs are looking pretty worn too; i bet your pads are thin..

lastly, everything's looking pretty dry under there; make sure you get it all greased :lol:

so yeah just the basic stuff like that really.

#4 jameslearwood

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 06:16 PM

Haha I know it's gone from engine clean up to a rebuild then an engine bay tidy up to a full front end rebuild.

Going to show massive restraint and just patch up bodywork as its not structural until I can do a good job of it (time and money).

Giving the work I'm doing I definitely need to service brake, Hubs and suspension just not sure which bits I should defo replace and where there is possibilities for upgrading looking at brake callipers and dampeners just not sure why or too what end. Not interested in height adjustment just improving handling, performance or practicality.
Wish i had a daily drive car and a better job as it would be a full rebuild, I'm loving doing the work learning so much :D

#5 jameslearwood

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 06:21 PM

Cheers was going to give it a good clean out and grease up just not sure if it's better to strip and paint arms and such like with hammerite then refit or just do a standard service as per Haynes.
Drawing to shiny new bits though cheers for the help

#6 dow62

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 09:35 PM

Looks much better cleaned and painted, need not cost much to do, how long it stops like that no idea !Attached File  106.JPG   42.44K   41 downloads

Edited by dow62, 08 May 2012 - 09:36 PM.


#7 jameslearwood

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:22 AM

That does look good think that's what I'm going do cheers

#8 jameslearwood

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:42 PM

a bit bamboozeld looking at the current dampeners and i reckon the fixings will be chewed if i take them off at least to an extent i wouldn't want to put them back on so do i leave alone and touch up with paint or replace. I want to do the latter just a wee bit confused can i replace just all four dampeners and not touch the suspension or ride height or is this defeating the object.

Just looking to see as there is some variation from £14 to £50 for dampeners was just looking at the minispares KYB gas filled ones 25% improvement to the standard.if i get the adjustable trumpets what does this entail and do i need to get that kit for adjusting something on the mounting not entirely sure.

This will never be a race set-up only an improved road set up to enhance the fun :D

#9 jimnali

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 09:06 PM

James
I would suggest the following priorities in addition to cleaning and painting:
  • Brakes - new pads (definitely) and new disks (probably). Clean and check the callipers. Make sure they are free to move and there are no sign of leaks. Check metal brake pipes for corrosion and flexible pipes for perishing. Replace as necesarybrake
  • Check for wear in balljoints - adjust or replace if necessary
  • Check wheel bearings - replace if necessary
  • Dampers. They are pretty corroded so are well past their best. In the interest of your safety you should replace them too. Your choice will largely depend upon your budget but for normal road use there is no need to go for the top on the range. Stick with a reputable brand and you will be fine.
You have not mentioned any problems which would suggest you need to replace the suspension cones. You will have plenty to do addressing the above list so I would suggest that you leave them for another time. You are not interested in lowering the car s don't waste your cash on adjustable trumpets 0- these are simply "bling"!

Good Luck

#10 jameslearwood

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 08:59 AM

Belters that's exactly what I wanted to hear now I know my job list.
So is the minispares KYB kit reputable or is there something better in a similar price range was looking at Spax too!

Just to check i can undo the tower bolts securing suspension to the bulkhead thus allowing me to lower the subframe whilst I do some tidying up?

#11 jimnali

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 09:10 AM

I have no personal experience of KYB so can't give a recommendation. However Minispares and Keith Calver have good things to say about them so this suggests that they would be okay.

To drop the subframe you need to unbolt the front "teardrop" mounts, the lower mounts onto the bulkhead/floor and the tower bolts. You also need to disconnect the front brake pipe and keep the battery cable out of the way. To support the car use a piece of timber (3" by 3" or similar) on axle stands across the floor just behind the bulkhead. I used another peice of timber and a trolley jack to lower the subframe and reposition it.

Good luck.

#12 jameslearwood

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 09:19 AM

Thank you yup got that all sorted just wasn't sure about the tower bolts will check the brake pipes as well thank you :D

#13 abe46

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:42 AM

I have just taken delivery of the kyb gas-a-just set, and very happy with the quality! Have yet to use them on road but heard good things about them :)

#14 jameslearwood

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 01:12 PM

That's good to know quite excited now I know what's what will have a play tonight after work :D

Any recommendations on brake pads as I will definitely replace these is it just a case of cost?
Can the front and back be different on that not is the back drum or disc brakes?

Edited by jameslearwood, 10 May 2012 - 01:13 PM.


#15 jimnali

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 05:17 PM

Good point. I didn't mention rear brakes in my previous posting but you certainly should overhaul these at the same time you do the front disks. Key points for rear: check wheel cylinders are free to move and don't leak (Change if in doubt), new brake shoes, Rear adjusters often seize - remove and clean or replace them. Handbrake quadrants also seize - free them up and grease them well. Check brake pipes etc.

I don't think it matters greatly whether you buy shoes and pads are from the same manufacturer but it might be sensible to do so. These are safety critical items so go for a reputable brand (Ferodo, lockhead etc) Some mini owners seem to favour EBC pads etc - I read somewhere that these need to be fully warmed up to work properly so are maybe best left for performance drivers.

Looks like you are going to be busy. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Edited by jimnali, 10 May 2012 - 05:18 PM.





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