38 replies to this topic

[jameslearwood]

Spot on cheers.
Looking at it all needs a good tidy up especially as I've had the car 2-3yrs and none of it has been touched in that time looking forward to doing this stuff just be happier when I get the engine back in and I hear her come to life again. Will post hear as I work on it cheers for the help

[jameslearwood]

well thats the callipers off and the shock absorbers going with cleaning up and painting the arms etc black and the wheel hub and brakes blue to match the engine the thought of this makes me happy the thought of removing half the front end does not but it needs doing. THank you for your help




also the rubber on these bumps have perished away from the metal plate so taking them off

[jameslearwood]

Just though i'll mention the brake disc look fine no ridging i was planning on taking the hub off to clean and paint then discovered removing said wheel hub nut without wheels, whilst its on axle stands with the subby detached and no brakes is probably not a good idea.

[jameslearwood]

So these are the brake pads i've come too http://www.minispare...id=42775&title== are they any good for road use its the (ebc green stuff) bit confused as minispares only seem to list pads with cooper or metro on them so not sure if they are fine for my standard callipers?

stripped the arms off one of my hubs the steering arm bearing moves fine but feels like its on its way out, upper arm is spot on lower arm is canny goosed to say the least going to leave the wheel bearings as i'm sure there okay plus it will be easier to do when i can loosen the wheel hub nut once the car is back together

lost my rag with the brake pipe union's nuts on the subframe so just grinded them off new pipes in order i believe, steel braided ones shiny ooohhh

Edited by jameslearwood, 15 May 2012 - 05:43 PM.

[jameslearwood]

http://www.minispare...id=42775&title==

Edited by jameslearwood, 15 May 2012 - 05:43 PM.

[jimnali]

Sounds like you are making good progress, James. I note that minispares also have Lockheed and Unipart pads which are cheaper but any of these should be a sound choice.

Looks like you have discovered the correct tool for removing brake unions from the subframe - an angle grinder works every time! Make sure that you order all of the parts you need for the brake unions - remember copper washers and nuts (Note that the mini has different nuts on right and left sides!) You might also need a new banjo fitting. Another thought - it might be wise to fit new bleed nipples on your callipers.

Keep up the good work!!

[jameslearwood]

That's great cheers can't believe I spent so long before I used the grinder to be fair lol
The banjo thingy I haven't seen it on the car yet but will have a look will get the bleed nipples now they do look a bit suspect.
The brake stuff I pretty much have sorted the pipe comes as standard copper do I need to paint or cover this or will it be thing as is? I have the finished artical in my head just won't appear in the garage

[jimnali]

The banjo goes on the drivers side where the flexi pipe and passenger side pipes connect. You may need to replace this if its has got damaged during removal. You don't need to paint the copper brake pipe but you can do if you like. You could also polish it with a bit brasso!

Jim

[jameslearwood]

Ah righto the banjo im with it now what a bizarre name though. Cool i prefer shiny copper dont tempt me i will consider doing this! Now im going to have to replace all the piper work lol

Question i have the offset sphere pot joint, as i cant remove the drivshaft from the hub was thinking of removing this and withdraw the other way will make life easier just a question of should i.
reading haynes dont have the special tool and it recommends using a flat bar and whacking it just not 100% sure on but the bar where and whack it into what? The metal securing strap around the rubber covers how is this removed its one continous piece cannot see a join?

[jimnali]

Life is too short too spend it polishing!

Is the reason you can't take the drive shaft out of the hub is that it keeps turning? If so you could temporarily re-assemble, chock the wheel to stop it rotating then get a breaker bar to give you some leverage.

You can remove the other end of the drive shaft from the hub. DRAIN ALL THE OIL FIRST. The technique is to get the end of flat bar between the pot joint and the diff, use one of the bolts on the diff cover as a pivot point then kncok the flat bar toward the engine so that the point joint is forced away from the diff.

Do you really need to remove the drive shaft? If you are only replacing the ball joints then you can do this with the hub in place. You can also clean and paint the hub etc without removing it from the car. Careful that you dont damage the rubber boots on the CV and pot joints! If I rember correctly some of the boot retainers are one pice metal bands that are crimped into place. You have to cut these to remove them. If the boots are okay then I would leave them alone!

[jameslearwood]

Cheers for that don't really want to touch them just the only thing left in the engine bay is the subby albeit disconnected and the drive shaft pot joints just thought when in Rome but really think there best left alone. Will see how it goes with the bodywork. Cheers again

[jameslearwood]

Erm... i completely ignored rationale and decided to take pot joints off i did this by removing the metal clip and the joint seperated away from the bearing only did one as wasnt expecting the mess and not entirely sure where to proceed from hear going have a swot up with haynes at some point...

[jameslearwood]

Any suggestions please?

[jimnali]

James
You have actually taken the pot joint apart rather than taking it off the drive shaft. Don't worry (I confess I did the same) this is easily put back together.

First clean up the various parts of the joint - wipe the grease off then wash them with some pariffin and dry the parts. Make sure that you have all of the ball bearings.

Secondly check for any obvious damage to the joint. If it looks okay and there was not any previous knocking noises then order up a new gaiter for the pot joint. Like this - http://www.minispare...id=32687&title= Order two and you can do both drive shafts. These gaiter come witrh a new satchet of grease and the clips to secure it.

Next remove the remaining part of the joint and the gaiter from drive shaft. The drive shaft is held on by a spring circlip. If I remember correctly you hold onto the shaft and tap the joint with a soft face mallet. (Check your Haynes manual)

Re-assemble the joint inserting a ball bearing into each of the holes. Refill the joint with the grease provided. Slip the gaoter over the end of the joint and secure it with the clip provided. I found it easier to do this and install it onto the differential before reinstalling the drive shaft.

With the engine in place slip the drive shaft through the subframe and slide it home into the joint. You may need to give it a little tap with a mallet to seat it properly.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Edited by jimnali, 27 May 2012 - 09:25 PM.

[bmcecosse]

Copper brake pipes are NOT suitable - get Kunifer pipes...........