34 replies to this topic

[RossKnight]

I've fitted a whole stage one kit, albeit not from an actual kit, hence why I have no needle.

Things that have been replaced;

Inlet manifold
Exhaust manifold
Exhaust system
Cone air filter

Before anyone says it, I know it needs a new needle, tune, rolling road all that etc etc, but please read first

The car, after the changes, without the richer needle, was pretty much undriveable, wouldn't rev, no power, had to hold the choke out to get it to run a bit better, I then adjusted the carb slightly and got it a bit better, but obviously no-where near 'good'

I need the car for this weekend as I'm camping at the new forest before Beaulieu Show, so I'm going to go out and finally (thankyou bank holiday...) buy a needle so I can get it at least driveable, as it's obviously running very lean at the moment.


My main question is, will I be better off using an AAU needle, or the richer AAA needle? AAU usually comes in stage 1 kits but is there to be 're-profiled', would I be better going for the AAA needle as it's richer and then adjusting it slightly?

This will get set up properly when I can

[[email protected]]

Personally I would go with ABD on a cone filter with the stage 1. Aau is for an element, aaa for an 1100 or 1275

[RossKnight]

More of the reason I was looking towards AAA because AAU was included with element filters

I didn't know AAA was suited to 1098/1275s though, I take it that it won't be okay in a 998 then?


only questioning as I've never actually heard of the ABD needle being suggested over the 10+ stage one kit threads I've read, is it a common needle?

Edited by RossKnight, 05 June 2012 - 07:05 PM.

[[email protected]]

It's not common to our stage 1 kits, as we supply the element rather than a cone filter. It is common as a richer stage 1 needle (at least with minispares anyway)

[lrostoke]

This is from a Keith Calver article on stage 1 tuning 998's

CUD1018 AAU needle for stage one kit with replacement element air
filter - non-modified casing
CUD1011 AAM needle for stage one kit with replacement element air
filter - modified casing (with holes drilled in)

AAM is very similar to AAA, I think the AAM is slightly richer
I'd say the AAA is best suited to a cone filter

[RossKnight]

It's not common to our stage 1 kits, as we supply the element rather than a cone filter. It is common as a richer stage 1 needle (at least with minispares anyway)

Okay great, well I'll certainly look into that, thanks

This is from a Keith Calver article on stage 1 tuning 998's

CUD1018 AAU needle for stage one kit with replacement element air
filter - non-modified casing
CUD1011 AAM needle for stage one kit with replacement element air
filter - modified casing (with holes drilled in)

AAM is very similar to AAA, I think the AAM is slightly richer
I'd say the AAA is best suited to a cone filter

Again, thankyou for the advice, I think I may try and get hold of an AAA and an ABD as they're not expensive and that way I can try both

[cal844]

i have a 998 mini and i fitted
a minisport inlet manifold
unknown 2 inch LCB
and pancake KnN filter.
the car runs sweet as a nut and i didnt change the needle as i couldnt afford the kit from minispares. .

[2-alex-2]

i had a simular thing not to long ago with my carb i ended going for an aaa with prity much stage one kit but nto all from same place like you with a cone k&n filter i also used this web site to decide on which one was better.

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

basicly put in what needle is in then selected the more richer needles which are AAA,ABY,AAM and AAB

ABD doesnt seem to be that rich its basicly a stright line on the graph so let you decide where you want it to be richer

[RossKnight]

I had a play around on that site yesterday actually, hopefully the AAA being richer than the current standard needle will at least make it able for me to drive the car this weekend anyway, and then I can sort it out properly and hopefully can afford a rolling road tune, as well as the mot coming up soon and the tax... haha

Also another quick question, it's idling very high, the idle screw on the carb doesn't seem to have much effect on slowing it down, could it be that the throttle cable is connected too 'short' so it's holding the carb open slightly more than it should, or shall just keep trying the idle screw?

[2-alex-2]

could be that you have wond the idle down all th way but becasue you altered the fuel to make it run reasonable its running high would say get the new needle then sort out the fuel then the idle

[lrostoke]

make sure your fast idle screw is not touching the cam area of the choke mechanism...

[RossKnight]

Sounds logical haha, thanks, will report back, got to get a lift to either minispeed or minis-r-us to get the needle and then get it running correct

Is it worth me getting a colour tune rather than testing by trial and error?

[RossKnight]

make sure your fast idle screw is not touching the cam area of the choke mechanism...

I did notice that it's either touching, or extremely close yesterday, which has just reminded me I was supposed to actually check properly haha

[jbs.998]

Let me know how you get on with the needle choice, I may need to go with a richer needle as I have to have my choke out a bit too much with my aau needle. Runs ok with it though.

[RossKnight]

you using a cone air filter jack?