
Best Fan?
#16
Posted 15 July 2012 - 09:08 PM
#17
Posted 15 July 2012 - 09:30 PM
However, the fan must be fitted so that the pitch of the fan blades pushes the max. amount of air through the radiator; so the pitch angle of the blades should increase in angle relative to the running plane of the fan as it rotates clockwise looking from the radiator to the engine.
If fitted incorrectly the loss in airflow is around 20%.
#18
Posted 15 July 2012 - 11:43 PM
engine ----- ( ------ radiator
#19
Posted 16 July 2012 - 06:54 AM
#20
Posted 16 July 2012 - 06:33 PM

#21
Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:00 PM
Thanks for that guys.Im trying to run my 1380 cooler as soon as i slow down it starts to get hot then starts to bubble.ive got a stage 3 head inch an 3/4 su 286 cam lighten flywheel 3 branch manifold and a blanking sleeve insteasd of a themostat and a bloked off by pass hole,it has a 11 blade fan on it with a bigger pulley i tried fittig a 6 blade fan but it was to close to rad an this thing flys for a mini well i think so.ANY IDEA WOULD REALLY HELP THANKS WHOOSH
With that spec you do really need a 6-blade export fan, plus an auxiliary electric fan for low speed, in-traffic situations. That's what I run on my 1310 cc rally 'S' and it is fine, although I do have to switch the elec fan on in traffic on hot days (what's a hot day?). With a 6-blade it won't need a bigger pulley as that reduces the volume of air moved through the rad.
#22
Posted 18 July 2012 - 02:30 PM
#23
Posted 18 July 2012 - 03:19 PM
You want the water to circulate well and with a blanking sleeve it can tend not to.
I suspect that you have the worst set-up you can have with blanking sleeve, large WP pulley and 11-blade fan whilst trying to cool a 1380 which has thin cylinder walls due to its overbore.
it would also be wise to fit an auxiliary manually switched electric fan under the wing outside the engine bay.
Make sure you also have a capilliary-type temp gauge as the electric ones are very inaccurate.
#24
Posted 18 July 2012 - 03:48 PM

#25
Posted 18 July 2012 - 03:55 PM
With that done and an electric aux. fan under the wing it should be easy to keep at the right temp.
#26
Posted 18 July 2012 - 04:13 PM
#27
Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:36 PM
If you do as advised and it still runs hot the radiator could be suspect. However, a 1380 does tend to get 'a bit warm' because the cylinder walls are much thinner than a 1275 to 1330 cc engine and the heat gets into the coolant more readily. Do fit an electric auxiliary fan as well. By the way, check the ignition timing as a retarded ignition will cause a tendancy to overheat too.
#28
Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:45 PM
here's what it sounded like with the 4 blade fan fitted.
Edited by oltonlad, 18 July 2012 - 08:48 PM.
#29
Posted 18 July 2012 - 11:00 PM

#30
Posted 19 July 2012 - 12:46 AM
Sounds like a supercharger lol (or even straight cut gears)
Edit: You do have straight cut gears. You still heard the fan over the gears?
Edited by ricekikr, 19 July 2012 - 01:13 AM.
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