10 replies to this topic

[DOOCE]

Hello, I am trying to disassemble my driveshafts and cannot see how this piece comes off. From the photos I can find, it should be a spline with circlip holding it on. I have new pot joints to go on, so not worried about damaging this piece if I need to. Anyone have a trick?

Edited by DOOCE, 22 June 2012 - 08:16 PM.

[tomgale]

in my experience those are rather well attached, not sure where the circlip is, can't remember one. looking back, maybe that's why I struggled.

[rids]

they just tap off . the circlip is on the inside the same as the outer cv joint. a good sharp tap should do it

[JustSteve]

As above, its on with a circlip.

Ideally, you need to put the shaft in a vice, and with a BIG copper mallet (and pussibly punch) whack the end off.

You can hit it all you like with a hammer, but it's not how hard the hit is, but the type of blow you give it. Copper mallet's probably the best tool I don't actually own. I just use my dads at home and other tool setters at work, but I must get one soon!

[xrocketengineer]

If the joint is in good shape with no corrosion or pitting on the balls or races, might as well leave it alone. I had to cut mine since it was badly pitted. The problem is that there is no good seal between the axle and the cv joint to prevent moisture from getting in. The splines of both get corroded and bound up together creating an incredible amount of friction. Even when I split mine along its length in four pieces, I had to hit each piece really hard many times to make them slide out along the splines. See my thread:

http://www.theminifo...-stuck-to-axle/

Edited by xrocketengineer, 23 June 2012 - 12:15 AM.

[CBJ805T]

Sorry to hijack but I have exactly the same problem! I've stripped both driveshafts down. On one, the pot joint end piece slid off with a few taps. The other has been soaking in release agent for a week but there is still no sign of it budging!

If the joint is in good shape with no corrosion or pitting on the balls or races, might as well leave it alone. I had to cut mine since it was badly pitted. The problem is that there is no good seal between the axle and the cv joint to prevent moisture from getting in. The splines of both get corroded and bound up together creating an incredible amount of friction. Even when I split mine along its length in four pieces, I had to hit each piece really hard many times to make them slide out along the splines. See my thread:

http://www.theminifo...-stuck-to-axle/

xrocketengineer, can you give a little more detail on how you split the end joint in 4? I'm worried about damaging the splines on the driveshaft. Your thread says you used a dremmel. Did you cut completely through the end joint? I had a feeling it would be hardened and that I wouldn't be able to cut through it. The end of the pot joint is heavily pitted and so needs scrapping. I was ready to scrap the drive shaft as well until I realised they were 80 quid!

thanks Chris

[DOOCE]

OK thanks for confirming that it will come off. Will update with how I get them off, but will probably be cutting them off.

[tiger99]

I think that a hydraulic press will get them off. Your local garage or engineering company is likely to have one. You could try tool 18G 1243, if you can find one, but I don't think it will cope if it is very tight. But you could also put the shaft vertically loosely in a vice (provided the vice opening overhangs the edge of the bench, as it should), with the joint inner member resting on the vice jaws, and use a substantial punch and heavy hammer to drive the shaft out. Soak it in plusgas first.

The reason why it will not move may be corrosion, as stated above, or cold welding of the surfaces, or likely a combination of both. Splines like this must be well greased, because if not, you get any or all of wear, fretting, corrosion, or pressure welding if there is the slightest clearance, which there must be or they would never fit. You may have seen rough spots on similar things before, even bearings and gear teeth, that is galling, caused when a tiny pressure weld breaks again.

So, on reassembly, your new CV should be filled with an ounce of Duckhams Bentone Grease Q5795 or equivalent by the manufacturer, or by you every time you take it apart, but put a good lubricant grease (not copper grease, which is anti-sieze but has poor lubricating properties) on the splines, Bentone will do here too, but if not available, whatever is in your grease gun, such as Castrol LM, is much better than nothing.

It is good practice, every time the engine or driveshafts are removed, to not dismantle the pot joints but to use tool 18G 1243, because that way the splines are disengaged every time, and can be cleaned and greased. It also avoids disturbing the internals of the pot, and the diff oil seal. Likely as not, most Minis will have the engine out quite frequently nowadays, as the capability of DIY maintenance has improved over the years, and engine cranes are widely available (along with all the other stuff which is routine now, and scarcely available 30 years ago, like MIG welders), so there is ample opportunity to avoid this problem in future.

What we need now is an acceptably cheap source of tool 18G 1243 or similar. I am surprised that none of the spares suppliers have twigged that such a tool would actually be useful. There are pictures in the Haynes and Rover manuals, so you can see how it works.

[DOOCE]

Appreciate the help. I ended up cutting the cap off, then soaked the splines in penetrating oil, then put it vertically in a vice and tried to hammer the shaft out. It didn't budge so out came the cutoff wheel again. I ended up getting them off without damaging the splines. I then remembered I had another set of drive shafts laying around, and might as well do those now. Cut the caps off and they were full of grease, so just hammered the shafts out like I had tried before. Only took a couple of light taps and they came out without issue. I will definitely be using grease on the splines when it goes back together. Thanks for the help!

[xrocketengineer]

CBJ805T,
I used a Dremel with a 90 degree adapter and a reinforced cutting disc. The 90 degree adapter gave me real good control for the cut depth and the reinforced disc would cut fast and straight with no binding. I cut as deep as I could without touching the axle splines. What was left of the joint material broke off when each piece was hit with a chisel and hammer in the direction to slide along the splines.

tiger99
A hydraulic press would not have worked in my case. The puller that I was using, that broke in the end, had deformed the axle end significantly. So, I if I had used a press the axle would have been damaged beyond reuse. The axle splines were very rough and needed a lot of cleaning. They were not badly pitted as you can see in the picture. Most of the corrosion came from the joint causing the binding.
The joint seemed to have been a factory original installation with the very thin O ring to prevent moisture from getting in (that does not work). It appears that the factory installed it with no lubricant whatsoever and therefore the corrosion.
When I reinstalled the axle I coated the splines inside and out with anti-seize grease. A little over a year later, it came out easily by hitting the joint with a hammer and a screwdriver when the gearbox needed a replacement.
So, you are right, the splines need some lubricant or they will get stuck again.

DOOCE
Great to know that you got it solved.

Ivan

Edited by xrocketengineer, 23 June 2012 - 01:12 PM.

[tiger99]

Sorry, I confused the type of grease. The POT joint which we were discussing takes 50 cm³ of Shell S7274 Tivella A grease, not Duckhams Bentone Grease Q5795, which is for the CV. Same considerations apply though, it should be ok to use it on the splines, but best avoid mixing Bentone with anything else.