
Battery Issolator Switch
#1
Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:16 PM
Cheers, Joel
Pics would be great!
#2
Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:43 PM
http://item.mobilewe...nid=73259539082
I know it's not the type you want but is alot easier to fit!
Anyone use one of these? Are they any good?
#3
Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:50 PM
If you are OK with that, and want to fit it anyway, you will probably want the switch visible and easily accessible. Inside the car this probably means making a bracket to suspend the switch below the dash. You will need to disconnect the the main battery feed at the starter solenoid and extend it so it can pass through a grommet (that you must install) in the firewall. You would then need a second length of cable (new) to return from the switch and connect to the solenoid terminal where you removed the firs wire. Most switches do not come with back-side insulators so you will likely need to make a neat cover to protect the bare threaded metal posts/terminals.
The type that James posted in his link work but of course... they are in the boot. The brass ones also have a reputation for falling apart after a while due to vibration. I don't mean unscrewing... I mean breaking. A less expensive alternative for a disconnect at the battery is to buy a marine battery cable clamp. They typically are small, made of lead, and have a threaded stud to receive the battery cable. A heavy wing nut secures the cable to the cable clamp.
The link below is for a marine battery terminal.
http://ecx.images-am...L500_AA300_.jpg
#4
Posted 28 June 2012 - 08:16 PM
Also I have no clocks but I do a sound system, luckily I never listen to radio, just mp3s so that's ok. Which would you advise?
#5
Posted 28 June 2012 - 08:22 PM
#6
Posted 28 June 2012 - 08:31 PM
My main reason for wanting one is that I have noticed a few of copper strands starting to break on my negative lead where I bend the cable away after disconnecting it. Using one of these negates the need to bend the cable. But I certainly don't want to buy one that falls apart. I've already been through the embarracement of having my car die on me at a set up lights because the battery lead has come off.....
#7
Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:03 PM
#8
Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:25 PM
did involves drilling a hole in the tunnel.

http://www.vehicle-w...ns/battisol.php
#9
Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:30 PM
#10
Posted 29 June 2012 - 12:44 PM
glad of it recently as well, brother in laws car decided melt some of its wires, seems to have been a fault with the old single speed wiper motor...soon as he saw the smoke he disconnected the battery with this switch.
No idea why the fuse didn't blow.
Best of it is when we fitted a new motor and new partial loom we did manage blow the fuse ha ha
Edited by lrostoke, 29 June 2012 - 12:44 PM.
#11
Posted 29 June 2012 - 02:21 PM
Fitting this to one of ours, works a treat, its mounted inside the car in the center tunnel...just cut the main positive battery cable and fitted this switch
did involves drilling a hole in the tunnel.
http://www.vehicle-w...ns/battisol.php
That's a good one.....Humm tempting. Also is a good anti theft idea too
#12
Posted 29 June 2012 - 02:42 PM
Why is the battery draining over night?!
There must be something wrong in your charging system to cause this to happen as its not normal.
The battery could be old and not holding its charge, could be a loose belt on the alternator so its not charging properly, dodgy earth...etc
I would be wanting to find the source of the problem, not mask it.
#13
Posted 29 June 2012 - 10:27 PM
#14
Posted 29 June 2012 - 11:27 PM
re the fusebox, could be the box its self. they are always a bit iffy when old. have you tried cleaning the fuse holders?
#15
Posted 29 June 2012 - 11:30 PM
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users