23 replies to this topic

[MiniElliott]

Hi, I think it's about time I start a project thread for my fast road spec 998.

First of all I would like to thank Oltonlad and all the other fast road small bore build threads. J322OverTheTop for his video - This inspired me to do the build. And Cooperman for checking my CR calculations.

The 998 spec will be:

Standard bore 998 with flat top pistons
12G295 Cylinder head
Kent MD226 Cam
Twin HS2 Carbs
Compression Ratio of 10:1
Final Drive 3.65
Standard Pre-Verto clutch and flywheel assembly
Lucas 59D4 Modiffied Dizzy

Hopefully I will achieve about 60 BHP at the wheels.

So the car it will be going in is a 1978 mini 1000

It's a little rough around the edges but it's a good daily driver and has never let me down. However the engine has a rattle and id like a bit more power so I think now would be a good time to build another engine.

.

So I bought another engine. Its a Metro A+ engine with a 3.65 final drive. I would prefer a 3.44 however I think I will keep the 3.65 for now.
Also I do not have a garage so this build will be all outside in the back garden or in the cellar.




So that's it for now. Hope someone else reads this. If anyone has any questions dont hesitate to ask.

Thanks
Elliott

Edited by MiniElliott, 13 July 2012 - 08:27 PM.

[MiniElliott]

So started to strip the engine down. First by taking the head off. This proved to be a little tricker than first planed as the engine just wanted to tip over. So a few bits of wood came in very usefull.

An old head gasket proved very usefull to store the pushrods in order.

So with the head off the bores looked good however mucky. So I made use of an old hoover and did the housework.

With the flywheel housing off I inspected the gears. All looked fine, so I will be keeping the good old helical gears.

Next I flipped the engine over to remove the gear box and differential.


The main reason for seperating the engine and box at this stage was due to the fact the flywheel had already been removed which made it very difficult to undo to crank pully bolt. I ended up using a steel chisel through the fuel pump hole to lock the crank.

I will upload some more tommorow.

Thanks

[MiniElliott]

I made the decision not to remove the pistons and crank. Also I got a few needed parts from Classic Mini Bits in Bradford.

Pre Verto flywheel, pressure plate, flywheel cover (WOK), Lucas 59D4 and some tappet chest covers (Not pictured)
I also have a new Pre Verto clutch kit from Mini Spares.
I then mocked up the flywheel and clutch.
.
The next thing I wanted to do was paint the block. So I got it in primer and then BMC engine Green.

First coat of BMC Green


After watching the Janspeed DIY Mini video and looking at oltonlad's build thread I decided to paint the entire engine, gearbox and flyheel housing/ cover.


Also got a few other bits sprayed up

After the painting I started to rebuild the block


I used Granvile high temp silicone on all of the gaskets to help ensure a good seal.
So this is how the block looked when re assembled.


Thanks
Elliott

[mini mayhem]

looking good, i'll be keeping an eye on this as i'll be something similar soon.

keep it up man

[MiniElliott]

looking good, i'll be keeping an eye on this as i'll be something similar soon.

keep it up man

Thanks, for the reply. I will update the progress now I know somebody is interested in this build.

[minimissionary]

I'm interested too! Theres something strangely enticing about ditching my 1275 for a beefed up 998, so I'll be very interested to see how this goes.

[MiniElliott]

Glad to see people have interest in this. Anyway more progress.

This is how I the engine is kept when im not woring on it. Its far from ideal but it keeps it safe.

Also remebering to keep organised and labled.

This is the 12G295 head I will be using. I will be getting it skimmed and hardened valve seats fitted as they are currently knackered.

Very pitted valve seat.

My first step towards performance was to work out how much needed to skimmed off the head to give a compression ratio of 10:1. I did the calculations as per in the Yellow bible and worked them out on the back of a MiniSpares invoice.

Anyway, I worked out that I would need 40 thou taken off the head to get a CR of 10:1. Thanks to Cooperman for checking the calculations.
Also I messured everything using the syringe technique.

So I sent the Head of to Drakes engine re-manufacturing in Bradford for New valve guides/ seat recut, Hardened valve seats and a skim of 40 thou.


All looks nice.

I also took a trip to Moss to get nice Kent MD266 cam

Got some cam lube, cam timing disk, cam shaft and some nuts for the bell housing.

Thanks

[minimissionary]

Love the ghetto maths Keep building!

Edited by minimissionary, 22 July 2012 - 03:31 PM.

[The Otter]

Wow, I never would have guessed my video would have inspired someone as much as it did, I really appreciate the mention, cheers

Sounds like a nice plan you've got for the engine, and you seem to be working through it well so far, nice and organised. Should feel pretty nippy with that final drive too.

Hopefully next year I've got enough cash to pull my engine out and rebuild it, and fit a better cam! That's the only thing restricting mine at the moment, I can feel the potential the carbs and head have but it's not being unlocked fully because of the stock cam.

I don't want to shoot you down or anything, but I reckon 60 at the wheels may be a bit optimistic, I'd guess you'll end up around 50-55, depending on the rolling road you take it to. Who knows though, I've never even re-built an engine, I hope you get 60 and I look stupid

Keep up the good work man

Sven

[minispaniard]

very inspirational. I'm keeping an eye on this too!!

[MiniElliott]

Thanks for the replies.

Wow, I never would have guessed my video would have inspired someone as much as it did, I really appreciate the mention, cheers

Sounds like a nice plan you've got for the engine, and you seem to be working through it well so far, nice and organised. Should feel pretty nippy with that final drive too.

Hopefully next year I've got enough cash to pull my engine out and rebuild it, and fit a better cam! That's the only thing restricting mine at the moment, I can feel the potential the carbs and head have but it's not being unlocked fully because of the stock cam.

I don't want to shoot you down or anything, but I reckon 60 at the wheels may be a bit optimistic, I'd guess you'll end up around 50-55, depending on the rolling road you take it to. Who knows though, I've never even re-built an engine, I hope you get 60 and I look stupid

Keep up the good work man

Sven

I was very interested in a better engine for the mini after it started rattling but couldnt choose what I wanted. After seeing your vid I knew I wanted to keep the 998. As said above theres something about a powerfull 998 over say a 1275.
I ended up buying another engine to build due to the fact I need the car as my daily driver and it had dished pistons so getting a decent CR would require a lot of skimming (mabey 80 thou).
And 60BHP is just a number. Ive seen others produce that. Im not that bothered if it doesent produce 60, as long as it is a nice car to drive and has a bit of a kick.

Anyway I have more proggress to upload later

Thanks

[MiniElliott]

So before I do another update I need everyone to look at the pic below.

What do you think the number is ?
KCMD...
Please anyone who reads this reply with your opinion.

Thanks

[Klevdo2202]

Looks like 286 to me....

[minimissionary]

Looks like 286 to me....

+1

[MiniElliott]

Exactly, looks like 286 to me. I ordered a 266. The reason I was so worried lies on the fact the engine is now in the car. (I'm backdated with my updates). I was so worried I pulled the cam out through the inner wing to check. Thankfully it is indeed a 266. The image is just a very believable but awful trick of the light.

So a bit of time wasted.

Thanks