23 replies to this topic

[eden7842]

Defantly looks like 266 to me :-P

[mini-luke]

Not just your eyes, I would have sworn it was a 286

[frog998]

Can i just ask if you went to all the trouble of splitting the engine and box why you didn't replace the bearings

[MiniElliott]

Can i just ask if you went to all the trouble of splitting the engine and box why you didn't replace the bearings

Good question.
The simple awnser is Intend on doing a full rebuild on the original engine to go straight back in. It will be the same spec. This engine only really needs to last 1 month as Im going to Uni in september.

[BVY]

Great thread!

I've just bought a 1098 block and head with all the bits. I'm in the same boat. I need my car for work, so a second engine to rebuild while the car is on the road is the only way.
The guy had already rebuilt the head and done the unleaded convirsion, but one of the valves has melted, so i'm gonna rebuild it my self anyway. Then get the head and block re-faced, maybe a rebore, or just hone and polish it. Then cam etc etc etc
But first I have to finish throwing money at the other engine. It's gotta last long enough for me to do a slow rebuild!!

Hope it all goes well!!

[MiniElliott]

Great thread!

I've just bought a 1098 block and head with all the bits. I'm in the same boat. I need my car for work, so a second engine to rebuild while the car is on the road is the only way.
The guy had already rebuilt the head and done the unleaded convirsion, but one of the valves has melted, so i'm gonna rebuild it my self anyway. Then get the head and block re-faced, maybe a rebore, or just hone and polish it. Then cam etc etc etc
But first I have to finish throwing money at the other engine. It's gotta last long enough for me to do a slow rebuild!!

Hope it all goes well!!

Thanks for the reply, I hope your build goes well.
Unfortunatley I have abandoned this project. I wasnt happy with the bores and when I finished the engine it smoked abit on start. Its now a table. Luckily the only bits I bought for the engine were transferable parts and £20 worth of gaskets. So I reffited the old 998 and learnt a lesson- Do the job properly and do it once. Anyway it was good practice for my current build. Since the 998 needed a rebore I decided that I would rather that £300 odd on building a 1275. I decieded this after an A-series 1275GT block became available for a good price. So basically Im redoing the build but using a 1275 which I have just had rebored to +40 thou making it a 1310. This time Im doing it all properly and I will take my time (Its going to be my project whilst Im at Uni). I will start a build thread at some point.

I definatley suggest you get a rebore as many including Cooperman would advise on an unknown engine.

Thanks
Elliott

Edited by MiniElliott, 24 March 2013 - 07:17 PM.

[BVY]

Well I'm sure it makes a nice table!

Yeah unfortunately we usually end up learning the hard way!!

Cooperman has given me good advice before too! It's early days yet. I am gathering ideas and advice etc and will start buying some bits... Slow and steady!

Looking forward to the thread! I'll start on my self once I start the rebuild.

Good luck!

[TimmyG]

Reminds me of when i did my thou! Bought a complete car with 20k miles on it and thought i'd just mod the head and change the cam, but it turned out No1 cylinder bore was so worn it had to be taken out 40thou just to clean it up! So i had to do a full rebuild in the end which ended up costing more than having one built. MUch more satisfying doing it yourself though, and then you know its done properly.
Moral of the story is just because of low mileage, doesn't mean low wear, this engine had done 20k cold miles, the choke was always out, the oil never got warm and the thermostat never opened!

I notice you have the vizard book to hand so you've probably read the bit that mentions about decking the top of the block to get the pistons flush,(they're usually about 0.5mm from the top at TDC) If you need to use dished pistons if required to get the compression down. Its easy to think dished pistons is the same as the pistons starting down the bore but it isn't as they still have a 'squish ring' around the edge which is very important.

Also you didn't mention whether yuo timed the cam in properly, Its all in the book as to the reasons why you should anyway, but don't listen to anyone who says just time it dot to dot. You may aswel leave the cam standard if so....

Anyways enjoy the build and enjoy the driving aferwards :)

Tim.

Edited by TimmyG, 24 September 2012 - 06:27 AM.

[MiniElliott]

Reminds me of when i did my thou! Bought a complete car with 20k miles on it and thought i'd just mod the head and change the cam, but it turned out No1 cylinder bore was so worn it had to be taken out 40thou just to clean it up! So i had to do a full rebuild in the end which ended up costing more than having one built. MUch more satisfying doing it yourself though, and then you know its done properly.
Moral of the story is just because of low mileage, doesn't mean low wear, this engine had done 20k cold miles, the choke was always out, the oil never got warm and the thermostat never opened!

I notice you have the vizard book to hand so you've probably read the bit that mentions about decking the top of the block to get the pistons flush,(they're usually about 0.5mm from the top at TDC) If you need to use dished pistons if required to get the compression down. Its easy to think dished pistons is the same as the pistons starting down the bore but it isn't as they still have a 'squish ring' around the edge which is very important.

Also you didn't mention whether yuo timed the cam in properly, Its all in the book as to the reasons why you should anyway, but don't listen to anyone who says just time it dot to dot. You may aswel leave the cam standard if so....

Anyways enjoy the build and enjoy the driving aferwards :)

Tim.

Thanks for the replies, im getting more now since I have abandoned the project than before.

Thanks also, I do know about getting the pistons flush with the block. Im going to get it skimmed once I have done the measurements. I did actually time the cam in properly with a DTI gauge. However when I realised the engine was naf I stopped updating this thread.


Ive just moved away to Uni so the build progress will be slow, but I hope to get some work done on It at the weekends anh holidays when I return home.
Im going the integrate the new build into this thread and change the title to suit.

Thanks
Elliott