18 replies to this topic

[Bacon]

Thanks stormduck,that sounds very interesting.

If you could scan it in that would be really helpfull.

Thanks again,Bacon.

[Dan]

We've been through that before. The method Keith used in that article would not by any means be a cheap way of building an engine. The cheap get-you-out-of-a-fix way of doing this is to pocket the block. The engine Keith built is an extremely precisely engineered and well crafted unit. He was in the lucky position of being a very good engineer and so was able to do it himself. It would cost a fortune to get that engine built.

As for your plans, the bit that scares me is

I've been in touch with minispeed

!

I think you're being unrealistic about budgets here. You say it's not a money pit engine, but if it's built for this budget then it probably will end up being just that as it simply won't last. The point being made above is that you need to spend at least as much time, effort and sadly money on good uprated engine build as you do on a standard re-con and probably a lot more, if you don't then you're wasting your time and cash.

[Pavel]

GW I believe you got it the wrong way round and meant to say Leaded instead of Unleaded. As the others have said later on its the older LEADED heads that have larger valves. Unleaded MG heads have exactly the same size valves as any otehr unleaded 1275 head.

If you're on a budget, you can pocket the block yourself. I definitely know of a few people who have done it and personally don't see a single problem if you take your time (if engine is out of the car and you've got the block on your bench you stand very little chance of messing it up).

At the very least, hone the bores, new rings, main and big end bearings, i'd suggest new cam bearings since those are pretty cheap anyway. This will make the engine take any mods you want to stick on it (within reason).

If you want a CHEAP rebuilt 998 I'd suggest the following (expert feel free to tell me if my suggestion is pants):

Pocket block
Hone the bores
New rings for your pistons
New main bearings, and big ends (if low mileage engine, you'll probly get away without grinding the crank)
New Oil Pump
MG Camshaft
New followers
LEADED MG head (just buy additive for your fuel!), skimmed to give overall compression of around 10.5:1, grind the valves in.
Copper head gasket set
Engine Block gasket set
Stage 1 kit
HIF 38 carb (get a used one)
Duplex kit
Clutch kit
New points, condenser, rotor arm, dizzy cap, plugs and leads
Budget a bit for small bits and unexpected expenses: e.g. lock tabs, washers, paint, valve grinding paste, etc.

I *THINK* that that could be done for under 300 if you're very careful how you spend your money. However, it won't go too far without a rolling road session (unless you're a magician), so budget for that as well, even if it means you have to wait a month or two after building the engine to install it!
Overall I'd say including a rolling road session for around 500 notes you could rebuild the engine to the above spec quite comfortably, but this is all assuming of course that the bottom end is indeed in good condition (otherwise, budget for crank regrind at the very least, in worst case you'll need a rebore but that will double your costs!)

That engine won't be a screamer as you put it, but it will have quite a bit of power (especially at top end) and should keep up with most 1275 without any problems.

[Guess-Works.com]

Yeh, little bit of a typo up there, mean to say

.... or those which have been converted from LEADED.