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Welding The Rear Subframe


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#16 tiger99

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 06:21 PM

Galvanising is the best way to protect it, but it will need a strong jig to prevent it from distorting. Powder coating is not good for things exposed to road dirt and stones, because once the coating is damaged, water creeps under it and accelerates corrosion, which is dangerous as it remains hidden. Traditional underseal is worse than useless for the same reason.

Probably more practicable than galvanising, because no special precautions are needed, is to grit blast it to provide a key, and use a real zinc primer, followed by as many coats of epoxy primer and stonechip as you wish.

#17 minimissionary

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 07:35 PM

I just chucked about 10 layers of Waxoyl at mine. Wish I'd stonechipped it though. I painted mine in silver hammerite to begin with though, so I could see the areas the Waxoyl had worn away from.

#18 1984mini25

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 07:58 PM

The one i've just fitted got a treatment of a light sand as a key, one coat of red oxide, more red thined with spirits and poured into the box sections, 2 coats of hammerite, a coat of underseal and all the nooks and crannies filled with waxoil. Hopefully it'll last another 7 years before I have to do it all again.

#19 minimissionary

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 08:04 PM

I did two coats of Hammerite and Waxoyled the hell out of it. Waiting for the brown stuff to appear...

#20 miniyellowmini

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Posted 17 August 2012 - 08:16 PM

That subframe already has had some seam welding done, if I am not mistaken. Good idea to do that anyway.

I am slightly concerned about repairing that area, where the side member overlaps the crossmember, because there will be rust between the surfaces, and some unknown about of thinning. I would suggest that the overlap needs to be completely removed, and a bit beyond, to clean it up properly, and a larger patch than envisaged will then be required. It will not actually take much longer to do. Seam weld right across the width of the side member, and be sure to plug weld where the spots were, and seam around the end again.

The metal should be thick enough to weld easily, if it is clean.


Thanks for the advise :D I'll take it on board. Might look at welding this up at work as we have industrial welders that I can use which will probably be more suitable/make the job easier than my Clarke.




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