23 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

The brown wires carry generated voltage from the alternator to the solenoid, they don't have any more to do with the ign switch than the feed off the battery.

If you are measuring Between the back of the ign switch & earth, the brown should always show 12v; the others will too, according to the key position. What happens with bits that should be ignition dependent - wipers etc. Do they work at all & with the ign switch in what position?

[H.M.M.]

No, all the ign dependants do not get power (heater fan, wipes etc) as power to the barrel stops.
From what I understand if I can get power to the barrel the rest should follow?

[tiger99]

Do the headlights stay on when you turn the key? If they do not, check the battery terminals as I suggested earlier. I have seen pot type battery terminals pass some current but completely fail to pass any current when a heavier load is applied. The pot type terminals, no longer used on new cars for good reasons, are utterly useless and are best replaced with the more commonly available split clamp type.

[H.M.M.]

All the lights work well, even on ignition position. This is what ruled out a battery issue, as this was my first thought.
This is what makes me think that there's an immobiliser.
The terminals on mine are clamps.

[Ethel]

I'm not seeing how you could have power at the barrel, cut it when the switch goes to ignition, and restore it when the switch goes back. With no power how would it know the switch has returned?

Unplug the barrel and measure the resistance between the brown & the rest (with key turned appropriately).

[tiger99]

Well, it is only in the brown wires then. Just replace them as per normal, with no non-standard bits.

But just to prove the point, if you use a very low wattage test lamp instead of the multimeter, does it light? Does a bigger lamp light? I suspect that neither will, because the resistance in the circuit is quite high.

Edited by tiger99, 08 September 2012 - 11:37 PM.

[H.M.M.]

This is what's got me?? I suppose it could be a short within the barrel?? I'm doing a thorough check in the morning.

[Ethel]

The terminals do erode. a simple test would be to "hot wire" the back of the barrel between the brown & the white wires.

[H.M.M.]

Re wired ign barrel to solenoid. Seems to be ok. Gonna finally take her on a test drive after 5-6 weeks off the road.

Edited by H.M.M., 09 September 2012 - 11:46 AM.