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My Re Built Block Seems Stiff


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#31 Pigeonto

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:32 PM

thats what I meant yes. Over to Cooperman.When he wer't lad they used to scrape the white metal side to obtain a perfect fit,probably side valved engines tho !!

#32 Cooperman

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:36 PM

Anyone used these ones they look alright and only a third of the price of my others which may seem to be maybe not so good

http://www.ebay.co.u...85268133&_uhb=1

Ta


Mini Spares big-end bearings are about £25 inc VAT. With them you know they are good ones.

#33 Cooperman

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:42 PM

thats what I meant yes. Over to Cooperman.When he wer't lad they used to scrape the white metal side to obtain a perfect fit,probably side valved engines tho !!


When building and 'blueprinting' a competition engine it is common to lightly linish the back faces of the bearing shells when they are a bit tight to get the same running clearance on each journal.

And, yes, I did learn the principles of bearing scraping, but never actually used the knowledge. I also had a side-valve Ford - a 1949 3.6 litre V8 Pilot - as my first car.

#34 Club man

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:43 PM

Thanks everyone, i think if i can go with two originals and it feels ok then ill go with that to save the bolts, failing that those federal bearings are quite a reasonable price

Im tempted to try sanding them just to see if i can do it and make it work, i might have to buy another old engine after this so i can play about some more

Thanks i will let you know what worked



#35 Artful Dodger

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:44 PM


thats what I meant yes. Over to Cooperman.When he wer't lad they used to scrape the white metal side to obtain a perfect fit,probably side valved engines tho !!


When building and 'blueprinting' a competition engine it is common to lightly linish the back faces of the bearing shells when they are a bit tight to get the same running clearance on each journal.

And, yes, I did learn the principles of bearing scraping, but never actually used the knowledge. I also had a side-valve Ford - a 1949 3.6 litre V8 Pilot - as my first car.


yeah i have heard of that, glad our little engines have the shells instead of having to re cast white metal into the block every re build!

#36 Cooperman

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:50 PM


Thanks everyone, i think if i can go with two originals and it feels ok then ill go with that to save the bolts, failing that those federal bearings are quite a reasonable price

Im tempted to try sanding them just to see if i can do it and make it work, i might have to buy another old engine after this so i can play about some more

Thanks i will let you know what worked


Linishing is a long job, but not difficult.

#37 Club man

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:51 PM

Artful dodger - Yeah, think how many problems i would be having with trying to do that !

Edited by Club man, 21 November 2012 - 09:52 PM.


#38 Club man

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:57 PM



Thanks everyone, i think if i can go with two originals and it feels ok then ill go with that to save the bolts, failing that those federal bearings are quite a reasonable price

Im tempted to try sanding them just to see if i can do it and make it work, i might have to buy another old engine after this so i can play about some more

Thanks i will let you know what worked


Linishing is a long job, but not difficult.


Im also going to invest in some digital callipers which will help and probably be useful for this sort of thing and for the rest of the build

#39 Cooperman

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:59 PM

To do a proper engine build you need digital callipers, a DTI, a crankshaft protractor and a 12" straight edge.

#40 ANON

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:03 PM

plastigauge is handy ;-)

#41 Club man

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:12 PM

Got the ruler

Got the dial gauge

Getting some calipers

Will look at protractors tommorow

And plastigauge

Thanks guys

#42 Club man

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 04:27 PM

Hello, I've had another go!

I got my old bearings out picked two of the best and cleaned em, fitted it all back exactly the same

I put the new ones back in still stiff

Now I know you shouldn't because they are matched and line boared ect, but I started getting annoyed and swapped no2 end cap for the no3 end cap just to see what happened tightened it all down and...

...it feels great very little effort to turn when rods are all straight, and light pressure to turn it as pistons move, great

But is this ok to do????

Thank you

Edited by Club man, 24 November 2012 - 04:30 PM.


#43 Artful Dodger

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 04:33 PM

they were obviously mixed up then if they are turning much better now ( only if they are all torqued up!)

normally if you mismach the caps the crank is stiff to turn:)

#44 Club man

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 04:39 PM

Well it had crossed my mind after if they had got mixed up at some point, and I've just had a major bit of luck swapping it with the mismatched one, but I kept them all bolted together and engraved the piston numbers on each cap so I'm sure they hadn't got muddled

Had they??

#45 Carlos W

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 04:43 PM

Whatever the reason, at least its all sorted! If the block gets turned around on the bench or whatever, 2 becomes 3 and 3 becomes 2 (kind of)

I know what I mean anyway!




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