
New Subframe Mounts Creaking
#1
Posted 15 September 2012 - 08:06 PM
The new mounts are all Unipart standard rubber mounts.
Any ideas?
#2
Posted 15 September 2012 - 08:09 PM
Edited by Twisty, 15 September 2012 - 08:09 PM.
#3
Posted 15 September 2012 - 08:17 PM
#4
Posted 15 September 2012 - 09:02 PM
#5
Posted 15 September 2012 - 09:12 PM
#6
Posted 15 September 2012 - 09:18 PM
#7
Posted 15 September 2012 - 09:24 PM
#8
Posted 15 September 2012 - 09:50 PM
#9
Posted 15 September 2012 - 10:12 PM
After a good, hard (and bloody exhilarating) drive, I am 100% certain that it's the lower mounts. I can only imagine that they've started doing it since being replaced, because the top ones are gone, as mentioned. The old lowers must've been pretty buggered too, and so had enough play in them to not make noise.
I suppose I'll replace the top ones on monday and see. Bet I'll need to redo the lowers before too long....
On the subject of solid mounting, did the later cars have reinforcement plates? Mine seems to have an 8"x2" (ish) plate in the footwell, which the bolts go through.
Also, my fronts didn't have spacers on them. Is this normal?
Edited by minimissionary, 15 September 2012 - 10:13 PM.
#10
Posted 15 September 2012 - 10:24 PM
#11
Posted 16 September 2012 - 03:18 PM
If you drive it like that, you will quite rapidly get fatigue cracking, in your case probably in the subframe itself. The creaking is likely to be movement of the subframe at some of its welded seams.
A front subframe MUST have a full set of solid mounts or a full set of rubber mounts. (Forget the badly designed and unsafe poly kits.) If not, dynamic loads will force something to flex, until it breaks. Typically, it is failed toeboard mounts that cause fatigue cracking in the inner wings just ahead of the subframe towers, but any mismatch in the mounts will result in cracking somewhere, and if it is the subframe or the bulkhead crossmember that goes, sudden failure is possible.
Check the entire area, including the underside of the bulkhead cross member, very carefully for cracks when fitting the top solid mounts.
#12
Posted 16 September 2012 - 06:26 PM
Are we talking tiny fractures or proper cracks?
Also, what is the likelyhood they've formed in the past 2 days?
Edited by minimissionary, 16 September 2012 - 06:47 PM.
#13
Posted 16 September 2012 - 07:43 PM
If it was as I thought, cracking will possibly not happen in 2 days, but in a few weeks, certainly. And, we are talking about big cracks here, if they happen in the inner wing, which fortunately is the easiest place to fix. With a mixed set of new and old rubbers, the stress distribution will not be good, but should be ok for quite a few thousand miles.
Having read more carefully, I would suggest that your new toeboard mounts may have failed already (not unknown, the design is very poor) or are under some excessive stress. Maybe loosening all the mounts, including both sets of bolts, mounts to toeboard and mounts to subframe, as well as the tops and teardrops, and bouncing the car a few times before doing them up again may help.
Solid mounts are the ultimate fix, of course.
#14
Posted 16 September 2012 - 10:33 PM
I'm not convinced the toeboard mounts have gone again, it feels solid when steering. Is there any checks I can make while stationary other than taking them off?
Glad its an easy job!
#15
Posted 16 September 2012 - 10:43 PM
It's a problem area for rust, worth giving it a look not only from the inside, but taking the mounts off one at a time and looking for cracks in the metal underneath them.
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