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New Subframe Mounts Creaking


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#16 minimissionary

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 10:48 PM

The metal looked ok, at cursory glance. Stuck some waxoyl on the mount area, just to be sure. The fact that its on both sides and started as soon as new mounts were put on, I'm convinced its something to do with the mounts themselves. Will update tomorrow. Gotta drive 100 mile round trip to Uni first...

#17 jaydee

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 11:46 PM

Replace tower bolt mountings asap, but also check the front teardrop are tight.

Edited by jaydee, 16 September 2012 - 11:46 PM.


#18 The Otter

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 12:20 AM

A possible way of checking how well the mounts are working is to open the bonnet, and whilst peering through the gap between the scuttle and bonnet and looking at the engine, turn your steering wheel from side to side and you should see a bit of movement, as in the engine will be rocking side to side with the steering. Someone else should know more about what movement is acceptable, but it should obviously be minimal. My car with it's rubber mounts moved quite a bit, but with solid mounts it is as described - solid. However a friend of mine has some rubber mounts that are obviously past their best and the movement is pretty shocking!

Anybody else have any information on whether this a valid check?

#19 jaydee

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 08:50 AM

Yes thats the way to check it, however the biggest movement is given by worn tower mounts and engine mountings.

#20 minimissionary

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:50 AM

Ok, I have checked the mounts in the way mentioned above. I get rather a lot of noise from the toeboard mounts, but no signs of movement. I can't even detect movement at the towers. The teardrops are tight.
Is it possible I've overtightened them? I did everything up to FT.

#21 minimissionary

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 06:09 PM

I never want to see a subframe mount again. I'm going solid. ******* it.

#22 mike.

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 08:55 PM

Yeah just convert them to solid, the floors don't need reinforcing for this if the mount area is in good condition anyway.

#23 jaydee

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 10:06 PM

I've just solid mounted a mini an hour ago. Not mine. Rubber perished everywhere and one of the floor mountings was also fitted wrong so the part of the subframe was slightly bent.Three hours of swearing. O_O

#24 minimissionary

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 10:50 PM

There looks to be plates inside the car. Are these significant?
My subframe is bent around the bottom arms from being jacked there. I can see solids being a ******* to fit.

#25 jaydee

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 10:21 AM

Mate, i've always found solids actually easier to fit, especially compared to the poly utter crap available on the market.
All cars have little plates on the inside, would be worth fitting 6"x6" steel plates (3mm thick) to avoid problems like floor cracking etc but i have to say you'll have the same problem to the inner wings because the gratest load is taken by the tower mountings.
I'd say go for solid all round, or at least, fit both tower and floor solid mountings as the teadrop are not essential to be solid and by keeping them standard you can also correct some of the subframe tolerances that will be more noticeable when the subby is solid mounted. Never fit tower mounting solid and other mountings in a 'non solid' form, never fit solid floor mounting without fitting solid tower mountings.
by the way the unipart rubber mountings you have fitted are the best quality you can find out there and have longer life than poly or other OEM replacement.

#26 minimissionary

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:28 PM

I've found the problem!!!!!!

I bolted them into the subframe, then lined the holes up into the floor. I took them off and did it the other way around, and it seems to have cured it! It must have preloaded them before any weight was put on them, so the noise was coming from them being constantly stressed. Problem is, I can now hear other noises instead :angry:

Think I'll save the solid mounting for when I do the restoration next summer. Its getting ripped apart, so I can weld in plates here, there, and bloody everywhere!

Thanks for all the help :thumbsup:

#27 rally515

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:43 PM

Just a thought for everyone when fitting new bushes is that when tightening the bolts holding the "bushed" parts on
you may want to consider putting the car down on all fours before fully tightening/torqueing up these areas as your over tightening them
before the car is in its road going position.

Hope this helps someone
Regards
Clifford




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