20 replies to this topic

[grahama]

Hi all,

I was thinkinh of putting a kill switch on the coil +'ve as I have the loom untaped and can conceal the extra wires when I re tape it.

Is a switch inline with the positive sufficient to dissable the engine????

Also what amps should the switch be able to cope with???

Graham

edit ... I have a ballasted coit by the way

Edited by grahama, 24 September 2012 - 08:14 AM.

[jaydee]

I have one fitted, its 15 amp but mines no ballast type and switch runs on the 12v live feed.

[maccers]

Will the engine actually even attempt to fire by doing this? I guess it will turn over on the starter giving some hope to a potential theft. You could use the connection on the loom that is for automatics, I am sure all looms have them auto or not, but this will not let the starter operate. Not giving away too much on here such as wire colour etc for obvious reasons but I can pm you more details.

[Rusty1182]

I've got one works a treat mine use to be auto aswell
So I have a switch for coil switch for starter motor live feed and push to start :)

[H.M.M.]

if you want you can isolate the solenoid too, by putting a switch between the barrel and solenoid.
At least this will stop the starter powering up. Also you can cut the feed to the barrel from the solenoid.
3 kill points with hidden switches, would be hard to get started from this.

Edit.

Put a switch on the brown power feed from solenoid to barrel.
Put a switch between (white and red wire) this is the power to solenoid switch from the barrel.

Edited by H.M.M., 24 September 2012 - 09:55 AM.

[lrostoke]

Your far better off isolating the battery .

The problem with minis is once under the bonnet a 12v feed isn't hard to find to make the coil live or getting the starter to spin.

Steering lock and battery isolator

A visual deterent also could save a thief ripping the steering column or dash appart first

Brother in laws auto was stolen, we got it back, but first thing they did was rip off the steering cowling. Once they realised the ignition was in the middle (1970) then ripped the center dash panel out.

We now have battery isolator and full steering wheel shroud type lock fitted

[tractor]

I like the idea of isolating the battery, google threw this thread up

http://www.theminifo...ry-immobiliser/

i think they're only about £15, just be carefull tho if you radio needs a code entering each time you disconnect the battery..!!

Trac

[jaydee]

I like the idea of isolating the battery, google threw this thread up

http://www.theminifo...ry-immobiliser/

i think they're only about £15, just be carefull tho if you radio needs a code entering each time you disconnect the battery..!!

Trac

In the discarnect kit they include a bypass with a inline fuse to avoid that.

[tractor]

Ah i see, so that fuse will be quite low rated so if you try to start the car without the discarnect set back to normal it'll pop the fuse, very clever

trac

[lrostoke]

We fitted our isolator into the transmission tunnel. So the key is accessable from the drivers seat. No wires visible inside the car.

We ran a thin wire from the live side of the isolator to the clock and radio memory. But in such a way as no live wires under the bonnet.

[dklawson]

I use a different kill switch method, one that is less likely to be noticed but still involves the coil.

If your car has a tachometer (and even if it doesn't) there would be a white/black sense wire for the tach on coil (-) (negative earth cars). You can run a white/black wire from coil (-) through the kill switch, and earth the other side of the switch. When the switch is closed, it is as if the breaker points (or electronic ignition) never "open" so the engine will not fire. If you already have a tach wire fitted to coil (-), find that white/black wire in the car and splice into the existing wire for your kill switch. If you don't already have a tach wire, run one from the coil to the inside of the car. The use of factory color codes will conceal the function of the wire.

[grahama]

Not sure how using the tach wire works. Is this not the earth for the tacho, coil and is routed through the distributor and engine to ground ?? How would a switch to gnd make a difference ?? Also what is the auto wire, can't identify it ??

I am going to get a battery isolator too and steering wheel lock !! The more the better

Graham

[dklawson]

No Smiths tachometer gets its earth connection via a connection to the coil or distributor.

The early Smiths RVI tachs runs coil current through the tachometer. RVI tachs are referred to as impulse tachs and they count the current pulses flowing through the coil. Those wiring schemes involve two white wires running to/from the tach.

I am referring to the cars where the later RVC type Smiths tach is fitted. The RVC tachs are voltage pulse sensing (like a modern tach). They use a single wire connection to coil (-) (negative earth cars). If that tachometer sense wire is earthed it is as if the points never open so it prevents the collapse of the coil's magnetic field and thus prevents a spark.

[grahama]

Not quite there yet

Ok, I am fitting a three clock binicle which has a green/stripe wire for the power I think and the black/white wire from the coil -'ve. That is also commected to the distributer to what I thought was an earth wire through to the engine. How would I do it with my set up plz??

Sorry sounding a bit thick atm lol.

Graham

[dklawson]

Find the white/black wire going from the coil to the tach. Use a ScotchBlock connector to tap into that wire and join it with another wire. Connect that second wire to the kill switch and connect the other side of the kill switch to earth.

Since you are carrying out other repairs/changes, complete ALL those other tasks and make sure the engine starts and runs normally. Do NOT add the kill switch until you know the engine will start normally. You do not want to throw a variable like this into the mix until you know the engine will run normally.