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Hole In Brake Line :(


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#1 The_Stig

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 08:36 PM

So, i was in the process of swapping the brakes from stock rear 1973 MINI 1000 brakes to MiniMania's big brake kit or whatever...
So, long story short'ish, i was try to separate the brake line where it hit the wheel cylinder/drum and since it is a bit rusty and i am unlucky instead of just the nut getting lose, the brake line twisted and it tore a small hole before i noticed :( It is just a small hole :D
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I have two main questions...
What should I do short term? (patch the hole, disable rear brakes, or ________)
And what should i do long term? (Cut the end off and add a new flare, make/get a new brake line, or ________)
I am concerned that if/when i undo the connection from the rubber brake line to the metal one on the suspension it will give me troubles as well.
I do have a flaring tool kit (never used it though)
The nut is quite rounded, so it is a good idea to replace it. (Vise-grips work well)
Thanks for your time

Edited by The_Stig, 12 October 2012 - 09:49 PM.


#2 jimnali

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 08:41 PM

Your good health depends upon your brakes working properly so don't mess around. If the brake pipes are rusty they are already overdue for replecement. Throw them all away and fit a new set of brake pipes immediately.

Edited by jimnali, 12 October 2012 - 08:43 PM.


#3 Old Bob

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 08:42 PM

Brake lines are cheap, replace it.

Bob

#4 minidave1991-89

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 08:45 PM

Replace it all, dont drive it with a patched brake line, wont work and you'll end up in a wall or something similar. As above you may aswell replace everything if its rusted, better to have well maintained brakes as they do stop you lol!

#5 The_Stig

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 09:22 PM

Thanx for the quick repreply!
So i should replace the metal pipes on the suspension then. (both sides most likely) should i try to bend the pipes myself or hope a tractor store (i live in a farming area) can make some from me if i bring mine in?
Minimania does have the have the rubber lines for $14 USD (9 quid) each which isn't so bad, but then i have to wait on the post again :(

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Also, how bad is it that the back plate is rusted through in spots?

Edited by The_Stig, 12 October 2012 - 09:32 PM.


#6 tiger99

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 09:44 PM

The brake lines are completely rotten and you should replace the lot. The backplate also is scrap. I would expect that the wheel cylinders will be too far gone to be safe too.

#7 MrBounce

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 09:49 PM

My Midas had been standing 11 years and the brakes weren't as bad as that! Where the hell have you been parking it? The sea? :ohno:

I agree wholeheartedly with everything said above: Replace it all!

#8 tiger99

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 10:23 PM

Oh, and to answer your other question, you can bend the lines by hand, carefully, or get hold of a bending tool. They come in both cheap and expensive types, a cheap one is perfectly ok. As you seem to be in the US, you will be using plated steel lines or maybe Cunifer, as copper is illegal there. Both will bend successfully if you are careful. In fact copper is illegal almost everywhere except the UK, where the authorities have been very slow to waken up to the extreme danger it presents.

#9 The_Stig

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 11:41 PM

It was in Cambridgeshire from around 99-08. Then I picked it up and took it to Washington State (the part the is dry'ish and has 4 seasons, but it was stored in my parent's garden for half the time I they stored it for me :/
As for replacing it all... that will be tough usless i re-VIN it :/
Thankfully the kit i bought has new wheel cylinders.
I'm glad it won't be too tought to bend new pipes. I'll look online for nuts for the ends of the pipes...
I'll put back plate on the list to order. Most of it isn't that bad, but enough of it is. It mostly keeps water & dust out right? How bad would it be to drive with the back plate like that? Since it is just to keep stuff out can i just patch it for now?
Thanx again for the quick replies!

#10 Ethel

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 12:13 AM

I suppose it wouldn't be critical if they are solid between the slave cylinder, adjuster and the mounting bolts to the radius arm. That's a big "if" going by what we can see though. I would think you can get all pipes and hoses locally, they're not particularly Mini specific.

http://www.minispare...|Back to search would make the job easier, you could probably get something similar made up locally too.

#11 Barman

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 05:00 AM

Hi,

A word of encouragement from a complete newbie to all this...

As part of my rebuild I threw away all of the brake and clutch system and replaced everything - it was rotten but not as bad as yours...

Anyway, I've actually found replacing the brake pipes very easy to do - I bought a reel of Cunifer, the connectors and a bending tool. I borrowed a flaring tool...

Some of the complex pipes took a little thinking about but I've had no problems - having never done anything like it before.

Yesterday, I filled up the clutch master cylinder with fluid and bled it and it worked first time! No leaks or anything!

#12 tiger99

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 10:25 AM

As Barman suggests, you can certainly source the brake lines locally, at least the material, preferably Cunifer, tube nuts, and flaring tool. Flexible hoses can also be made locally, for example any Goodridge dealer will be able to make a nice set of braided hoses for less than importing the original type from the UK. Actually, in some cases, not just Minis, a set of braided hoses works out cheaper than a set or originals, even in the UK.

#13 The_Stig

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 02:02 PM

That sounds like great advice. I've been watching videos on YouTube to see how the flaring tool works and such. It does look easier than i thought! Here is a cool video on how to get the air out of one's brake lines
I'm new to this area so I'll have to ask around who sells it here. Where I am from, the best place for this type of stuff is called "House of Hose" :D
Oh, on MINIs do we use "bubble" flare or "double" flare?
http://www.fedhillusa.com/ <----has pix of types of flare if our lexicon is different :)

Edited by The_Stig, 13 October 2012 - 02:07 PM.


#14 felipe

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 02:06 PM

Of course it is god to remove the nut and better to get such job done personally.

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remove broken bolt

#15 The_Stig

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 06:05 PM

Ok, I was able to get the s/s braided ones for the rear locally for $29 USD each (18 quid) I bought the Copper/Nickel ally lines and fittings. I was about to make do the flaring when i dropped part of the tool (small black circle) in the kitchen and can't find it! Grrrr!
I am also having a LOT of trouble getting part of the rubber hose off the far side (not near the UK curb?) It seems as if someone gummed at that side, put some goop to seal it, and left it...
Any ideas on how to remove it? I can't get an opened end spanner/wrench to grip it b/c of surface rust or something. I can't get a socket on it b/c of the body work to the aft of it. I'm trying to use a screw extractor on it, but not having luck yet because it hasn't gripped the inner brake tube of the fitting i think. My vise-grips are to big to get a good grip on it :(
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