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The Oil O Ring Question


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#1 mjpuds

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 07:47 PM

Do you or don't you , do you put gasket sealant on your oil o ring .. On the block side..or on both or do you leave it dry ..

#2 Fast Ivan

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:22 PM

I'm not an expert on that specific O ring (yet!! stripping my first a series at the moment) but I use a lot of O rings in my work and we always put a light smear of o ring lubricant on the o rings, not to much though.

#3 Jordie

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:25 PM

i put a dab of engine lube red stuff on it. just to keep it in place for peace of mind.

#4 sonikk4

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:28 PM

In my industry we use put the O ring in the fluid its going to seal never do we use any sealants.

#5 bmcecosse

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:04 PM

Which O ring are you worrying about??? A wipe of grease should hold it in place, NOT sealant - whichever O ring it is!!

Edited by bmcecosse, 16 October 2012 - 09:04 PM.


#6 1964Woody

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:21 PM

If you are talking about the ring in the Oil Filter, I have always wiped a good coat of clean engine oil around the rubber ring before installing the filter. Do not use gasket compound or similar materials.

#7 corrado vr6

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:44 PM

He's questioning about the o-ring in between the block and the gearbox, when I did mine we used a smear of grease to keep it in place

#8 mjpuds

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:54 PM

thanks vr6 .. that what i was doing before.. just wondering if any other ideas..

#9 Cooperman

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:58 PM

No sealant is needed around that o-ring. A smear of Hylomar on the engine to gearbox gaskets is a good idea and a 'blob' of RTV sealant at each end of the half-moon front main bearing seal is important.

#10 dklawson

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 12:14 PM

All I have ever done is smear a bit of grease on the gearbox/block o-ring simply to hold it in place during assembly. No additional sealants should be needed.

#11 mjpuds

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 09:56 AM

one last question . how come all the gearbox to block gaskets seem to not let the oil "o" ring not mate to metal to metal "well aliminuim of gearbox"
all the holes in the gaskets seem to small ,and stop the o ring mateing onto each side of the casings .. would it not be better to make the hole in the gasket a few mm bigger just to allow o ring to mate on metal to metal instead of metal to gasket..just i dont want to have to open her up yet again..

#12 jonny d

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 10:14 AM

I found that when I built my engine and box I just left it as was and not had any problems but im not an expert on this, Im sure it must be meant to be like this or it would have been flagged up by now

#13 dklawson

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 12:51 PM

would it not be better to make the hole in the gasket a few mm bigger just to allow o ring to mate on metal to metal instead of metal to gasket..just i dont want to have to open her up yet again..


I can only speculate about why the o-ring and gasket are the way they are. However before offering my best guess, I advise you to NOT open up the gasket hole to get metal contact on both sides of the o-ring. Leave the design alone.

I suspect that when the gearbox and gaskets were first designed they either did not know how much the gasket was going to compress OR they forgot to figure in in the gasket when designing the o-ring gland depth on the gearbox casing. The depth of the o-ring spotface on the gearbox casing needs to be the right depth to compress the o-ring and develop its seal. If you go back now and enlarge the gasket hole, the o-ring will not be pushing on the gasket but it may not be "tall" enough to even touch the bottom of the block. In short, enlarging the gasket hole at the o-ring may remove all compression from the o-ring seal so you effectively have no o-ring seal.

#14 mjpuds

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 11:47 AM

Still after rebuild no pressure ... back feed oil lines ...turned crank backwards many times....i think i might remove oil rad "cooler" just to remove one of the areas where there might be a air lock...

Edited by mjpuds, 25 October 2012 - 06:57 PM.


#15 Jordie

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 11:50 AM

I assume your cranking with the plugs removed, on a fully charged battery and ideally connected to another vehicle or battery.

I put the engine oil in, fill the oil filter with oil and back fill the pump a couple of times. Usually get pressure fairly quickly.




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