
Waterless Coolant
#16
Posted 17 October 2012 - 01:46 PM
#17
Posted 17 October 2012 - 02:26 PM
Cooperman, their argument seems to be less localised boiling in the head. I'm not convinced though, turning water into steam absorbs heat without raising the temperature (latent heat capacity) and, being less dense, the steam will bubble away from the surface. Either way, unless there's a complete failure in coolant circulation, a lower coolant temperature = more effective cooling. I'd imagine a 180 degree boiling point still wouldn't eliminate local boiling, considering petrol burns at at 2-3 times that, without considering the pressure.
#18
Posted 17 October 2012 - 03:36 PM
Anyway, I won't be using it as a 30% glycol mix has always worked fine.
The theory seems to be that you use this stuff on cars which run hot so they still run hot but don't boil the coolant fluid off so the running hot is not a problem. Running too hot is a problem whether the coolant fluid boils or doesn't boil. The engine should always run within its optimum temperature range.
#19
Posted 17 October 2012 - 03:52 PM
#20
Posted 17 October 2012 - 04:11 PM
You do have to wonder about products that use, or invent, their own terminology to explain themselves.
I had the same thought. Then I started having flashbacks to the Monty Python skit for "Crelm Toothpaste".
#21
Posted 17 October 2012 - 06:21 PM
Thanks for everyone's posts, they all make interesting reading!
The top and bottom of it is their website OS there to sell their products!
#22
Posted 17 October 2012 - 06:27 PM
VW have been cooling engines with out water since the 1930's
Ahauhuahua BEST reply ever!!

#23
Posted 17 October 2012 - 06:29 PM

#24
Posted 17 October 2012 - 06:47 PM
#25
Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:49 PM
#26
Posted 18 October 2012 - 06:19 PM
http://j-walk.com/other/wifispray/
#27
Posted 18 October 2012 - 06:45 PM
Not sure about this product but that wifi spray is supposed to be really good...
http://j-walk.com/other/wifispray/




#28
Posted 18 October 2012 - 09:32 PM
But I am most interested in the elimination of corrosion. That has to be worth the money. Rusty sludge in the block and head is the root cause of many overheating problems, and core plug corrosion is a nuisance too.
Just don't put it in an engine with a dodgy bypass hose or you will lose your investment!
#29
Posted 18 October 2012 - 10:19 PM
#30
Posted 28 October 2012 - 07:53 PM
the jd stuff is made for those combine harvesters that are running flat out for more than 24 hours straight. it has made a difference on our race car, the temperature builds up to its running temp but doesn't go over the top. i will be trying this in my recent mg metro engine swap to see how it is for a road car but the jd stuff is twice the quality of evans for quarter the price.
by the way water still dissipates heat faster than any other product you can by on the market
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