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Cannot Explain Overheating


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#16 Vonski

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 12:28 AM

From the Haynes manual,

Auxiliary cooling fan

Models with front mounted radiator:

Switches on at 105°C

Switches off at 98°C

If you want to run pure water as the cooling agent in a mpi then good luck but you will have problems, it will boil and leak, new cap or not.

Furthermore we don’t know if the original poster has done their own work on the car but it strikes me that somebody with the insight and capability of changing the expansion cap, thermostat, water pump and head gasket would be beyond any knowledge that might be imparted on this site.


Dylan8660, when entering this forum it explicitly states not to give advice unless you know what you're talking about.
Running pure water, whilst not advisable, will not cause the engine to boil as the fan cuts in at 105c as you have stated.
You are remembering of course that the boiling point of water changes in a pressurized system?
For example, a modern engined car can have a triple stage fan that cuts in on different speeds at 107c, 115c and full speed at 117c. (citroen 2.2HDI engine)
Remember, boiling point occurs when the liquid's vapour pressure equals the surrounding enviromental pressure.
Furthermore, under no circumstance does increasing antifreeze concentration in anyway constitute a diagnostic test as it contributes no information on the problem.
Please attempt to help and not to mislead.

As regards the actual problem, i have nothing further to add beyond the other users posts.

#17 firstforward

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 10:16 AM

Vonski, Well Said about Dylan, he is giving misleading information even after me giving an explanation about the virtues of using anti-freeze as a diagnostic test and as for his last post it beggars belief.

#18 Vonski

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 01:22 PM

Thank you Firstforward.
I was unsure if i was overstepping the mark there and being unnessecarily harsh, but thought it needed to be clear for any other readers that may be low on technical knowledge.

#19 Dylan8660

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 07:34 PM

Funny, Vonski thanks for the basic physics but aren't you forgetting that there is a leak, where's the pressure? I suggest that a greater mix of coolant is added so that it takes longer to boil giving the owner more time to find the problem and you call that diagnostics? I'd rather cover the basics first before suggesting cracked heads, blown gaskets and split expansion tanks.
Good luck.

#20 Vonski

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 01:13 AM

Dylan

1 - Basic physics in reference to your comments on running pure water.
2 - A leak does not mean there is no pressure, only that it is losing pressure due to the leak. The water pump provides the pressure, the leak causes the pressure to drop. So unless the leak is losing water faster than the pump can pump it the system will be under some amount of pressure.

I suggest that a greater mix of coolant is added so that it takes longer to boil giving the owner more time to find the problem and you call that diagnostics?


No, i specifically said that was NOT diagnostics.
For something to be a diagnostic test it must be based on logic.
Buying time to search for a fault manually is called 'hit or miss'
Besides, running a 70/30 coolant mixture will only raise the boiling point to about 113c. It does not take very long to go from 108c(50/50 mix) to 113c. Think that amount of time will make any difference to your hit or miss method of finding the leak?

#21 charie t

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:13 AM

It does not take very long to go from 108c(50/50 mix) to 113c.

I must need a new kettle.....

#22 Manuel B

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 11:57 PM

Water with a surfectant (Water Wetter, Engine Ice etc.) is the best coolant, water alone is the next best, but glycol based coolants at 100% or 50/50% are the worst for cooling, it's anti freeze, not actually a coolant at all, Water Wetter has rust and corrosion inhibitors, check out the graph in the top right corner of this tech info sheet.
http://www.redlineoi...r Tech Info.pdf

Do you have an IR temp gauge ?, you can measure the temps at different spots, the hoses in/out of the intake mani, the radiator inlet/outlet hoses, I see no mention of your thermostat, mine had a 160 F and the water was running through my radiator too fast to transfer heat, changed to a 180 F and my temps dropped,
a quick easy check of of exhaust gasses being blown into the cooling system is to squeeze the top rad. hose on start up, if you feel pressure right away it's a bad sign, hope you get it solved.

#23 Dylan8660

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 10:08 AM

Vonski, Thanks you've said so much more than I ever could, part of it's even correct.




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