43 replies to this topic

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Hi,

I just spent ages typing out stuff only for it to be lost. so sod that. heres some pics, let me know what you think.

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This is how the mini looked when i bought it, the day i got it home infact.

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Here's some more Just trying to get the picture size right

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Then The missus and i Started stripping it which we did in a day.

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One empty shell. More pics tomorrow

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heres some more. the day I put it in a van and took it to the bodyshop for body repairs.

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I had to have a whole new nearside rear quarter, sills and rear valance with hinge panel for the boot.

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Up front i have had new wings, new front panel, new scuttle and new offside door step. this was just to get it up to functioning state.
Then i had the front arches cut to take 13 inch rims, and the rear ones also cut and re welded to take the thirteens without any chance of scuffing when lowered or fully laden.

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More pics to follow

[evansisgreat]

Nice one, will be keeping an eye on this.

[miniblade81]

i like this conversion good progress good luck and will be keeping eye on too

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Heres some more. I seam welded a new rear subframe for strength and body sealed it to prevent rust as best possible. I also coated it in stone chip for extra protection.

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I completely overhauled the rear radius arms with new bearings etc etc

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The next picture jumps forward in time a bit upto when I had fitted the adjustable GAZ lowering shocks and adjustable trumpets

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And underneath where I had fitted new brake lines and braided hoses

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Some more body repair had to be done up front from where I removed the top strut mounts and rust holes appeared.

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over the next couple of days i will hopefully add some pics of me actually starting to modify the shell in preperation for the engine conversion. The interesting bit basically.

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I did some research before doing this project and found that if i wanted to stick with the round nose mini i had very minimal space up front. I had found a guy in Australia that had put the radiator under the boot floor with coolant pipes from an MGF running the length of the car.

I felt that the radiator would be quite exposed to damage under there and so decided to put in the boot with a under car scoop. The air would be picked up off the road go through the radiator and out through vents in the boot lid.

Im not going to insult peoples intelligence by going through it step by step because hopefully the pictures are self explanatory.
First I needed to cut the boot floor, then create the sides of the scoop.

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After that I coated the boot in Lightweight Dynamat to keep the noise of the cooling fan and fuel pumps to a minimum. I want to be able to drive this regularly and so make it as bearable to drive as possible. I also fitted some metal grate to the scoop inlet to protect the radiator from debris.

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I had to make a fan cowling for the radiator to sit on so the air is channelled through it and its rubber mounted. I also need to run an electric water pump to take the stress away from the engine pump having to move coolant along the length of the car. Coincidentally the coolant connections on the Toyota engine and the radiator connections are 28mm external diameter. I have used copper pipe of 28mm diameter to connect the radiator. As you can see on this unit I made.

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Thanks to the guys who have commented.

Anyones opinions would be welcomed

[miniblade81]

looks like you got same prob as me lol i got to put spare on back seats what fuel tank you using mpi one

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Nothing a mini compressor and a can of instant tyre seal cant fix. Those rear side pockets are more than large enough to accommodate! Maybe on the longer runs i would like a roof rack with a spare on, they look quite cool!

[miniblade81]

lol yeah good answer

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Oh the fuel tank is a standard one that i have modified, i will include pics soon.

This on the other hand is after i have cleaned up and put the first coat of aint in the engine bay. You can see i replaced the servo the car came with for the vertical master cylinder for more room.



Ypu can hopefully see that Imade a Subframe Jig before actually starting the subframe but keeping the oringinal intact for now too make sure the mounting brackets dont move. Plus a little wooden frame with casters that the jig sits on so i can wheel it around to get it out of the way when I need too



You probably recognise my design from some others you've seen i have extended the lower cross member.

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Seeing as now i have discovered how to do big pics, if anyone wants some of the previous pics big just ask.

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above is one of the front mounts that i have kept from the original mini subframe as it incorporates the front subframe mount and more importantly almost the tie rod mount which i didnt want to move as it would effect the front suspension geometry.



Above is where i have made a new mount for the lower suspension arm and reinforced the upper part underneath the upper suspension arm. I realise My welding isnt the neatest!



This is the rear gearbox mount which i have used from the original Starlet mount. all the mount are based arounf the original and have new polybush to reduce engine movement.



Front Gearbox mount.



The rear gearbox mount from the front.



Offside Engine Mount



The front gearbox mount with gearbox attached



Offside engine mount with engine attached


Trying to make sure that the rear gearbox mount does not get in the way of the exhaust routing down the tunnel too much.