1842 replies to this topic

[MiniCarJack]

This is the first time I've come across this build thread, and have spent most of my evening flicking through the incredible work you've done to get your Mini to the condition it's in now. If you were to sell it, whoever ended up buying would be getting the bargain of the century, and I think you'd end up really missing the mini despite the obstacles it's thrown your way. I understand the frustrations of feeling like getting rid of it and "cutting your losses", it's something I was feeling just last weekend when I discovered several things that need addressing with my own mini and I really just felt like selling it and being done with the whole ordeal. But if anything, seeing the amazing progress that's been made with your car over the years in this thread has been a bit of an inspiration for me to crack on with working on my own car, because I'd be very happy to end up completing anything to even a tenth of the level of quality and attention to detail you've demonstrated here, and you've proven that working outdoors in the cold isn't an excuse! As has been said above in a previous reply, you could swap in a solid engine in less than a day and your car would be one of the best around, all the other ingredients are already there! 

[jackgreen91]

New electric conversion kit and bosh you’re sorted

[I hate Brian]

I've just speed read this great build

[Petrol]

Hi Pete, I think you have done one of the most impressive shell rebuilds and home paint jobs ever to be featured on this forum. This is the hard work, the ‘freezing your nuts off’ hours spent on the driveway or unheated garage whilst everyone else is sitting inside. Been there, done that....and guess what....since then the likes of Integrales and Porsches have all come and gone but 25 years later my Mini is still here and it’s here to stay.

 

So you have had some clowns involved in rebuilding your engine and ‘box. Same thing happened to me during my first year of ownership with some ‘specialist’ in Nuneaton. In the end of the day, it’s only really one day of hard work to fix.....all the rest of it can be either done in the comfort of your home or outsourced. 
 

Just for a moment imagine a buyer pulling into your drive with say a Crafted Classics 105Bhp 1380 sitting in the back of his Van, fully set up on the engine dyno all jetted and timed, all this sitting on top of a Guessworks rebuilt standard helical gearbox. Nothing fancy or hyper expensive on any account, just some solid engineering that has been proven to be well enough to bring a smile on any Mini driver’s face in about 95% of public road conditions. Upon striking a deal with you, the buyer then removes the bonnet....lifts out the ill breathing 998 and lets the new engine drop in. He then spends another half hour unscrewing the SCCR gearbox from the old 998 and puts it in the back of the Van to save for a later date. At 4 p.m. after 6 hours of steady pace he’s all ready to go, and after asking you whether it’s ok to leave the 998 on your drive since he has no use for it, he then sets off with HIS perfectly tuned and perfectly restored performance Mini. For the next 25 years you’ll keep on remembering your loss, whilst after 25 seconds the other guy has already forgotten what he had just spent....

Sums it up really!
I have more time now so I won't give up on it
I do however need some help
It's who to trust

[pete l]

AC DODD seems to be a good bet.

[evoderby]

I have more time now so I won't give up on it
I do however need some help
It's who to trust

 

Great to hear you’re sticking in there!

I think there are some trustworthy people out there, but unfortunately some highly dodgy outfits as well. Some of the newer names I see and like are crafted classics (ex swiftune) as well as the car kitchen. Bill Richards has a reputation built on decades and decades of being involved with Mini’s, Rob Walker engineering (ex Oselli) provides some proper old school engineering as well. KAD do some nice 100HP turnkey road engines, OAP might also build you a nice engine when he’s not too busy rebuilding Porsche GT3 Cup engines. I think Mike Parry (race techniques) is still in the game, he’s David Vizard’s ex son in law who got into A-series engines when contributing to David’s yellow bible and has built some championship winning Miglia engines. Bret Simms took over Longmans and also has a long established reputation. Just a few names to look into I’d say.

[steeley]

Brett Simms did head work on my 998

Great workmanship and extremely knowledgeable

Not sure where you are but he is in hampshire

[Mini Manannán]

Jim at Road and Competition Engineering did a great job on my engine and he's near you:

Road & Competition Engineering
Withnelkfold INDUST EST,
WITHNELLFOLD
PR6 8BA Withnell
Lancashire England
Phone:
01254 831644
He's old school so doesn't have a website but he does have a page on Arsebook

[InnoCooperExport]

I've not been around here for a while and was gutted to see you were contemplating selling this one Pete. I've nabbed some of your rustproofing tricks on this build (Stainless P-clips with nylon washers, and Dynax) for my build, such a comprehensive and inspiring build. Glad to see you're sticking with it after all. Hope you can get it sorted soon!

[Ben_O]

I would certainly recommend Bill Richards if you want someone reliable and honest to carry out any engine work.

 

Not only does he seem to know everything, he is kitted out to carry out all aspects in house and is super friendly and very helpful.

 

He has done a few things for me now and I've installed a couple of his engines for customers with much satisfaction.

 

The thing I love about Bill is that nothing is too much trouble and he doesn't just do the work and run. Instead he rings and texts regularly to ask how it is, if there is any problems and is quick to respond to any questions.

 

Prices are great too.

 

Whoever you use to sort your engine issues, I really hope you keep going with this one Pete.

You were there to encourage me when I was about to throw the towel in after that flood I had with advice and ideas and I'll always appreciate that.

This car is a master piece and you deserve to enjoy it properly.

All the best

Ben

Edited by Ben_O, 11 April 2021 - 03:41 PM.

[Petrol]

Thanks for the positive comments, advice and suggestions. I really appreciate your feedback and fully take on board everything said. I want to get to the bottom of exactly what's happened with this engine and box. whilst I've never assembled a gearbox before I've built quite a few engines. The 998 Mini engine I built in the early 80's did 90K troulble free miles and was a similar spec to this. I find it totally embarrasing that I've built this car and have so many problems with that in reality, should be the easy bit - the engine!

 

The crunching gearbox - got to be a synchro problem but considering everything is new, I'm thinking there could be a mismatch in the taper between the gear and the baulk rings. The gearset is allegedly a NOS Jack knight SCCR bit of Kit. The baulk rings however are of unkown origin. I'm thinking guessworks is my best bet. Send it off and pay for a soloution.

As far as the engine goes, it's been problematic to say the least. After an epic fail with a crank grind due to tapered journals, I got a replacement crank and had all the machining done at Rob Walker Engineering. Everything was then spot on with the bottom end when I checked all the clearances.
Engine went in and started first time. It all looked good. I had running problems which is expected with a modded engine, fuelling timing etc but I had to change the oil filter at 500 miles due to a drop in oil pressure. Even with a very coarse hone on the bore I wouldn't have expected that. I kept on running it in and when it got to 1000 miles it went on the rollers.
55hp is massively down on this spec of engine
Kangarooing under 3.5k revs which the RR operator couldn't resolve but he put it down to the modded hif 38 carb
Another drop in oil pressure which suggests the filter is clogging up again

I'm in no rush to sort the engine but it's become personal now. Things are not right and I want to find out why. I don't want to pull it out just yet in case I need to check / try / fit new carb etc etc
How hard can it be? It's 1950's technology

[samforsey12345]

Have you got a load of copper specks in the oil? That would indicate a problem with the bottom end bearings.

Edited by samforsey12345, 12 April 2021 - 07:21 PM.

[johnR]

I'm in a similar situation - less than 100miles on a newly built engine and the big ends and crank journals (and crank)are scrap but no sign as to why. At least I still had the old 998 to put back in which has a new lease of life with an RC40 and the lighter flywheel from the 'new' engine. As you say there's very little to go wrong with this basic tech - it does feel personal! I also had an issue with the newly built gearbox (new bearings and baulk rings etc)- in my case it didn't want to go into first without initially being in second. I'm currently stripping it back down to try to see what the issue is there. 

[Mini Manannán]

You really need to try a standard HIF38.  Don't forget though, only one step at a time!

[Petrol]

Have you got a load of copper specks in the oil? That would indicate a problem with the bottom end bearings.

I haven't dropped the oil yet. The engine is still in whilst I work out a plan of action but that's a good point, when I do I'll filter it and have a look. I'll also check it with a magnet. It will be interesting to see what the magnet on the sump plug looks like too.

 

I'm in a similar situation - less than 100miles on a newly built engine and the big ends and crank journals (and crank)are scrap but no sign as to why. At least I still had the old 998 to put back in which has a new lease of life with an RC40 and the lighter flywheel from the 'new' engine. As you say there's very little to go wrong with this basic tech - it does feel personal! I also had an issue with the newly built gearbox (new bearings and baulk rings etc)- in my case it didn't want to go into first without initially being in second. I'm currently stripping it back down to try to see what the issue is there. 

It's gutting when that happens. First thoughs are oil pressure. Do you have a gauge? Gearbox is a different kettle of fish though. That sounds like a synchro problem like I have. When the baulk ring wears it hits the gear preventing spin up and ultimately crunching. On mine there was loads of gap which is why I'm thinking the tapers don't match. Good luck and please keep me posted

 

You really need to try a standard HIF38.  Don't forget though, only one step at a time!

That sounds like top advice. If I can get it running right before I pull it all to bits it will be a bonus. The needle has been tapered to give correct fuelling for my engine. The distributer was custom made incidently by AC Dodd.
I've been told that even a modded carb would't cause kangarooing but since it's not a fixed choke arangement......(the piston goes up and down varying the aperture for the fuel / air) I was thinking if it was bouncing up and down, it's a possible cause.
Mayble clutching at straws with theories but that's what you do when you can't get your head around problems.


I'm going to try to find another HIF38 and inlet manifold - I don't trust that either! Fit those and see how it goes.
Like you say, one step at a time

Thanks for your help and replies, It's appreciated
Pete