1842 replies to this topic

[jpw1275]

Wow

[Steve220]

That is utterly amazing! Once the shell is fully painted and cured, do you think it will take you long to rebuild the car?

[Petrol]

Thats superb. Ive seen worse come out of a booth, professionally painted and flat and polished. Looking forward to the final paint.

 

Thanks but pics can often hide a multitude of sins. The main reason I sprayed it flat blue (not metallic) is to check for panel straightness / ripples and on that front, I'm happy with it. I mentioned a pressing mark in the front scuttle. I noticed this as soon as the first coat went on so I sprayed quite a bit of paint on that area. I have now flatted it back and got rid of it :)

 

That is utterly amazing! Once the shell is fully painted and cured, do you think it will take you long to rebuild the car?

 

I don't know Steve220, whilst the shell is by far the biggest job, I have an engine and gearbox to rebuild. There's also quite a bit of custom fabrication which can take a lot of time. To be honest I'm enjoying the build and don't really care how long it takes. If I had every part ready to go on, it would take about a week to assemble though.

[Badboytunes]

Holy crap..... Thats superb !!!

[Junior Mini]

Hi Petrol,

 

Could Iask if you are using 2-pack or water based paint?

 

Thanks

 

Paul.

[Petrol]

Hi Paul,

It's 2 pack

 

Pete

[Junior Mini]

Ah, I see. Can you still get a supply of it? My supplier only suppiles aerosols of 2 pack now.

[Petrol]

2 Pack paint is a 2 part system which comprises of the colour and a hardener. Once mixed it will go hard even if stored in an airtight container. As a result, it's not available in aerosols as it would go hard in the tin. Any bodyshop supplier will be able to mix 2 pack paint to the colour you require. It's worth pointing out that 2 pack paint is hazardous and needs the right PPE.

 

Pete

[Junior Mini]

Thank you.

[Petrol]

You're Welcome, it's really confusing with all paint combinations available these days -

Zinc primer, weld through primer, 2K primer, POR primer, etch primer, high build primer (in 1 and 2K versions of course)

Colour -  Solvent based , water based, 2k solid, 1K colour, clear over base in both metallic and solids, synthetic and acrylic, oh and then there's celly, hammerite original, hammerite smooth engine lacquer. Caliper paint, VHT paint

Clearcoat - (lacquer) 1K & 2K, Then there's hardener for the 2K (also known as activator) available in fast and slow drying versions.

Also, Epoxy paint, epoxy mastic... the list goes on.

 

It's very confusing but if you are spraying with a gun, it's best to take advice from your local bodyshop supplier

 

Pete.

 

Just to add, I'm on a flatting back mission at the moment which is taking some time. I won't bore you with the details but will update the thread when it's ready for the final paint job

 

[RossKnight]

You forgot poster paint ;)

[Petrol]

You forgot poster paint ;)

 

[evansisgreat]

If you get a spare five minutes then I'd be really greatful to know what layers you used in different areas. Such as the body, panels (before and after welding), subframes and other parts.
I'm just about to start welding and need to get some paints. With so many brands and types available I (and everyone I'm sure) be really interested to know what you're using and where. So we can copy you.

[Petrol]

Electrox zinc primer
Original body panels cleaned up & de rusted – Floor pan inner wings etc.
Inside of seams
Inside of door skins
Inside of rear ¼ panels
Subframes


2K Primer ( MaxMeyer CFE etch primer 7050)
New panels both sides, for example wings, front panel.
Bare metal on the top of the shell - roof, bonnet, door steps, A posts etc


2K high build primer
Used on top of the electrox / 2K etch where required, to fill any imperfections or panel warping

 

 

Weld through primer
Used before welding in areas that are difficult to get to once welded.
 

Plastic primer
What it says on the tin


Colour coats
Whole shell was then sprayed with 2K solid blue (solid is non metallic) to check and repair any imperfections. Final paint is a 1K Tahiti blue metallic base coat followed by MaxMeyer HS Clear 0200.

Other parts – brackets/, suspension arms etc. Includes new and zinc coated parts. (Zinc coated parts have a yellow appearance)
Electrox zinc primer followed by 2K black solid. (No clearcoat)


Couple of notes on primers.
Zinc needs to be applied to good clean metal. It requires a good electrical contact to the steel. It’s useless if applied over paint. Similarly, whilst etch primer can be applied over paint, it works by the acid in the paint, etching into the steel to improve adhesion. That’s why I have used it on the top of the shell to reduce the chance of stonechips.

Hope that’s useful

Pete
 

 

[domdee]

i need to see more of this!

 

it would be good if the boys doing project binky commissioned you to paint their beast. the best engineering accompanied by the best paint preparation I've ever seen.