Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#976
Posted 25 April 2015 - 10:37 AM
Great job as usual.
#977
Posted 25 April 2015 - 08:28 PM
I don't think that's moving in a hurry!
Probably a bit OTT but I don't want the shell cracking later down the line. With the solid front subby, uprated shocks and minimum sound insulation, I don't think this car is going to be very comfy 
I'll definitely need to copy this idea when I get there. Both my inner wings and floor cracked when my mini was in use. I now suspect it was the mixing of solid and poly mounts I 'upgraded' to.
Great job as usual.
My inner wings also cracked and that was on a stock car. Glad I beefed them up as well.
Front subby bolted back on
I'm trying to get it rolling so I can move it out of the garage and into the sun......... Or is that wishful thinking? ![]()
Brake back plates are notorious for rusting where they bolt on. The way to prevent it is stop water getting behind by applying a small bead of instant gasket before fitting
This lot is new but I sprayed everything in 2K paint to make it last a bit longer
Goodridge don't supply washers in their brake line kits but I don't like tightening nuts onto painted chassis parts without a washer. Soon sorted that
Black drums
Pete
#978
Posted 25 April 2015 - 09:19 PM
The amount of thought that goes into this is amazing.
#979
Posted 26 April 2015 - 07:33 AM
#980
Posted 27 April 2015 - 10:10 PM
The amount of thought that goes into this is amazing.
A bit OTT really ![]()
Hi Pete not sure if your aware but the brakes all round use anti rattle serrated washers
Thanks for the heads up. I used flat washers which don't damage the paint, then nylock nuts which do the same thing as the serrated washers.
Pete
#981
Posted 28 April 2015 - 07:26 AM
The amount of thought that goes into this is amazing.
A bit OTT really
Hi Pete not sure if your aware but the brakes all round use anti rattle serrated washers
Thanks for the heads up. I used flat washers which don't damage the paint, then nylock nuts which do the same thing as the serrated washers.
Pete
Impossible to catch Pete out ![]()
#982
Posted 28 April 2015 - 05:46 PM
#983
Posted 24 May 2015 - 09:07 AM
ANy updates? You've been awful quiet lately. Hope all is well?
#984
Posted 24 May 2015 - 09:57 PM
ANy updates? You've been awful quiet lately. Hope all is well?
The jobs ground to a halt unfortunately Jase. I torqued up the wheel bearings and they felt way too tight to me and no.... I didn't buy Timken. Lesson learned! I also have a similar problem with one of the radius arm's - that's way to tight and all.
Add to that a big problem with my drains - United Utilities have been out about 70 times and can't sort it and to cap it all, I have an engine problem with the Nissan S13 ![]()
It doesn't rain, it pours!
I'm hoping to get the hubs/radius arm sorted this week.
Pete
#985
Posted 25 May 2015 - 11:59 AM
It's always the same, when things go wrong they go wrong. Good luck with it all.
Jason
#986
Posted 29 May 2015 - 08:46 PM
Thanks Jason. Project is back on track now, proper wheel bearings all round. These are not cheap but problem solved.
As far as the Nissan 200SX S13 goes, I was "browsing" and found this
24 years old, 1 owner, always garaged and done only 25,000 miles. I have a soft spot for these so I bought it.
Guess I'm gonna be real busy this year!
Pete
#987
Posted 29 May 2015 - 09:50 PM
Excellent, a man has to have his hobbies ![]()
#988
Posted 29 May 2015 - 10:28 PM
You're very lucky to find an S13 like that! Congratulations on the purchase.
#989
Posted 30 May 2015 - 05:51 AM
In the pictures at the top of the page, the brake shoes look to be the wrong way up though.
With the radius arm, I have known either the arm or the pin be out out of tolerance meaning everything nips up on the armed rather than the shoulders of the pin. No easy fix - either find some shim washers to sit on the pin shoulders or dress the width of the arm down slightly.
#990
Posted 05 June 2015 - 10:17 PM
Thanks guys. The S13 is being stripped and restored but that's another thread for another forum.
Thanks GraemeC for pointing out the problem with the rear brake shoes.
I used this pic to sort it and thought it might be worth posting
I have some shims coming so that should resolve the radius arm problem.
Progress is slow at the moment, I keep doing bits and bats but am focusing on the engine at the moment. Cylinder head looks like this now though it still needs a lot of work.
Unleaded exhausts inserts, Kent valve springs
Fully ported
Big Rimflow valves
Bronze wasted valve guides
The head has cost quite a bit to get to this stage. Next up is to balance the con rods.
Thanks for looking.
Pete
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