I always thought this was for holding a timing light but it is on the wrong side for the timing marks.
A quick search revealed this link (on TMF) which reveals it is used for mounting an external crank sensor.
http://www.theminifo...-large-notches/
Posted 15 October 2015 - 11:35 PM
I always thought this was for holding a timing light but it is on the wrong side for the timing marks.
A quick search revealed this link (on TMF) which reveals it is used for mounting an external crank sensor.
http://www.theminifo...-large-notches/
Posted 16 October 2015 - 06:28 AM
I prefer it with the seals so much so I have bought some :)
Posted 16 October 2015 - 08:53 AM
With seals.
Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:05 AM
Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:07 AM
Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:22 AM
My preference is with the seals, however, it is your car so you need to ask your self what you will be most happy with, no point in doing something everybody else likes if you're going to look at it and think it would have been better the other way around.
I also think my timing cover has the oval shaped breather and it's an SPI, I would imagine it's a space saving initiative like you say given the later cars had more to cram in under the bonnet.
Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:24 AM
I think it looks unfinished without the seals
Posted 18 October 2015 - 11:41 AM
Posted 18 October 2015 - 09:38 PM
Pete, I can't quite make out from the photos, are you using the late style rubber will trim or the earlier plastic one?
Sill trim is plastic, got it from Minisport
One of the problems with some rubber trims is they have a steel insert which can rust on the cut ends. The boot seal I have needs cutting to size and treating before fitting. Despite popular belief, rust is contagious so if you have rust stains running down paint, it will eat through the paint and eventually corrode the steel behind.
Pete
Posted 27 October 2015 - 09:55 PM
Posted 28 October 2015 - 09:48 AM
Posted 29 October 2015 - 08:04 PM
Thanks for the kind words, I used about 3 1/2 1Kg tins of stone chip but in an attempt to save weight, didn't put much on.
The arch seals are from Somerford Mini. GAW117FK - Fitting kit, standard arches
Picked up the short block today, chemically cleaned. Steel strap on main bearing, not strictly needed on a 998 but why not?
Block decked
Hone looks good - 45 degree cross cuts
New core plugs and cam bearings. You can also see in this pic that due to the webbing, it's an A+ block - stronger than pre A+ and gives me more options with the choice of distributer
Crank ground and balanced
Lightened flywheel also balanced with the clutch
Brand new genuine primary gear
Pete
Posted 29 October 2015 - 09:13 PM
Going to be a great little revvy motor!
Posted 30 October 2015 - 01:18 PM
A good 998 is very nice, but a 4.33 diff in a road car? I currently run a 3.9 in a 997 and also in a 1275. I did think about using a 4.1 in the 997, I'm glad I didn't now.
The 1275 is heavily modified and is used as a hillclimber that can also be used occasionally on the road. The 997 is an old rally car that I have just completed 1800 miles around Ireland in and it went well. A 4.33 would be an absolute pain to drive on the road. Indeed a friend of mine used one for a brief period and promptly took it out.
Your build looks very good otherwise, I like the forethought put into different things.
Edited by ace01, 30 October 2015 - 01:18 PM.
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