21 replies to this topic

[danny1]

right were do i start lol

right i posted in her a while ago i had issues with my clutch

it just stopped workign all of a sudden

no when i got it back to my workshop and finaily got it apart the paddle clutch had tottaly gone.

so i replaced it with a road rally plate i had, and nothing worked.

so i checked the master cylinder, thats ok
so i check the slave cylinder, thats ok
i checked the braided hose, and replaced the brass washers, thats ok

so my bell housing id drilled for cooling, swapped that for a std one
changed the clutch release bearing, thats ok
had the clutch apart again checking the diaprham, didnt look that best so i changed that, thats ok

every time ive put it back together ive adjusted it as per the hanes manual.

now the only thing i havnt changed is the flywheel its self and backing plate

now ive got a spare, so im thinking of swaping it all over and trying that.

any one else got any ideas as to why it might not be working.


as it just doesnt seem to want to disengage when i put my foot on the clutch peddle

ergh this is starting to become stress full

[JordanGT]

I had loads of trouble with my clutch,
I eventually changed the clutch arm, the push rod and the 2 clevis pins, I then gave the whole system a really good bled through. This sorted it out.
Looking closely at the arm the ball at the bottom has worn.

[danny1]

the arm and pin are all brand new as well as the plunger, as i uprated them, bought the kit from med

Danny

[JordanGT]

OK, I also despite bleeding the clutch hydraulics several times, I still had a little air in the system. Used a vacuum unit and finally a Ezi bleed kit to pressurise the system, before finall getting all the air out.
How does the pedal feel when you press it down, how far does the arm move? If you double pump the clutch can you then engage the gears?

[danny1]

if i double pump nothing happens.

the clutch arm its self goes out all the way when you press the clutch peddle.

and the the clutch peddle is heavy instantly, but thats because im using a grey plate

[charie t]

Did you fit the top hat part of the clutch?
This
http://www.minispare...lutch.aspx|Back to shop

Edited by charie t, 21 November 2012 - 05:32 PM.

[danny1]

no it doesnt have one,
its pre verto

[JordanGT]

Is the new clutch plate free to slide up an down the splines?

[danny1]

sure is there copper grease on the spines and on the end of the clutch

[JordanGT]

Very strange. Sorry I cannot be more help. I had the same issues and the clutch slipping once you got it engaged. I even changed the master cylinder and the clevis pins etc was the last items I changed before stripping the whole thing now again, but luckily I was able to solve the problem.

[danny1]

yeah its annoying me, ive got a spare flywheel so after ive had my dinner ill wip the one in the car out again and replace it with my spare and see if that changes it

Danny

[JordanGT]

Good luck, I hate clutch issues, let us all know how you go on.

[Turbo Nick]

try putting a manifold nut into the slave to act as a temp spacer on the push rod, i had to extend my push rod on my pre-verto setup to get it working.

worth trying before you attack the flywheel

[danny1]

cheers ill give that a go have you got a pic just so i dont put it in the wrong place :)

[Cooperman]

Is the clutch release arm moving when the fclutch pedal is pushed right down?
If it is moving check the linear movement at the top of the arm. It must move a minimum of 0.5".

If it moves less than 0.5" then it's either a hydraulic problem or a problem with the pedal to master cylinder rod.
If it moves 0.5" or slightly more it's a mechanical linkage problem.