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Lumpy Idle, Almost Stalling When Settling Back To Idle, Iacv?


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#16 Ruckus

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 11:50 AM


i have the same problem.
I was told........

You were asked about, nobody has told you it was definately
The "4 hour diagnostics" should have revealed a problem if it was carried out by a trained technician, The more details you can give the easier it makes. If you could give the readings from live data, it could point to the area you want to look at.
Unfortunately people assume that a computer will simply say, bingo thats your faulty part, most of the time it will, but in some cases it needs somebody to take the readings, test and understand what is going on.
Guess work costs and does not always solve the issues.


Not sure what your point is, but to be clear, everything i was told i was paying for.

The guy that did the daig was arranged by one of the most highly respected mini specialists in the south east...I was not there during the work as the car was left with them for a few days to find this problem, no one should be guessing on my tab, but they do it would seem.

At the end of the diag work I was told as fact it was something mechanically wrong in the engine... that now looks like a bit of a guess.

Edited by Ruckus, 18 December 2012 - 11:51 AM.


#17 charie t

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 11:55 AM

At the end of the diag work I was told as fact it was something mechanically wrong in the engine... that now looks like a bit of a guess.

Mechanical faults can be found during a live data run. If i was closer i would have offered to run out with you and go through it with you.
Mini systems are the most basic design because the engine had to be adapted to accept injection system.

#18 Ruckus

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 12:03 PM

I've been told i need to get the car on a system using the T4 Software, as all the previous diag kit that's been used has been generic (Snap on etc).

I've found a local indy MG/Rover place that have this and sound like they understand whats going on with the MPi's a little more than all the mini 'specialists' ive taken it to so far.

But i totally agree that looking a live data they should be able to see what the problem is, but it would seem a few 'specialists' claim they can help but really cant... but they still take your money.

#19 fattail95

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:57 PM

I cleaned the IACV today, was coked in soot, and once i replaced it the car seemed a little better, but not perfect... :(

#20 silver_toes

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:58 PM

I cleaned the IACV today, was coked in soot, and once i replaced it the car seemed a little better, but not perfect... :(


What's it idling at now ?
I had to take mine out for a blast down the motorway before it settled properly

Edited by silver_toes, 18 December 2012 - 07:59 PM.


#21 fattail95

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:01 PM


I cleaned the IACV today, was coked in soot, and once i replaced it the car seemed a little better, but not perfect... :(


What's it idling at now ?
I had to take mine out for a blast down the motorway before it settled properly


It idles happily at 800rpm, just sounds lumpy

#22 charie t

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:20 PM

You sorted the indicators out then?

#23 jaydee

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:29 PM

I know this will sound strange, but did yu try setting tappet clearance at 15 thou?

#24 fattail95

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 09:06 PM

You sorted the indicators out then?

You sorted the indicators out then?


YES!!!!!! It was a wire behind the dash that was exposed grounding on the radio, so nothing heavy!

#25 Jazzygerbil

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 09:32 PM

Hi,

Sorry to but in here and i dont want to teach you all to suck eggs but the idle problem you speak of is clearly Unmetered air getting in somewhere. Bear with me here.

You can talk reflashes and control valves all you like but the problem is the ECU doesnt have a clue how much air is going in to the engine. It can compensate at constant revs i.e. when the throttle is held in the same position for longer than a second or so.

when closing the throttle suddenly from however many revs the engine will almost stall because its being soffocated (hence Throttle) except for the essential air it needs to stay alive. The revs pick up because the ECU reads this and compensates by being programmed with a default value of air and so puts in the required amount of full for that default. This is why injection engines have Air Mass Meters or MAP sensors so the ecu knows how much air is going in so it can put the right amount of fuel in.

So I'm not sure what system these MPI minis run but its either the MAP/Air Mass sensor thats faulty or you have an air leak before the cylinders. Most common air leaks are rubber vaccum pipes perished or split, but it could be a inlet manifold gasket, throttle housing gasket etc.

Easiest way to check is to use a flammable spray like WD40 or Brake cleaner. Run the engine and progressively spray a mist over each pipe and joint to see if the revs raise. If they do then that is where your air leak is, Simple huh?

If im being a dick please tell me to go away!

#26 Ruckus

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 12:56 AM

I personally have replaced every pipe and hose related to the Vacuum system during my engine swap.
I have also had others check for vac leaks and i personally have used many cans of easy start hoping to find where it's sucking in air.

Yes you are right all the facts point to a simple air leak problems but in my case at least it's not it would seem.

#27 jaydee

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 09:50 AM

Since the OP reported hes got the problem straight after the use of a redex additive, its more likely a burnt sensor or a problem with the valvetrain

#28 fattail95

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 04:05 PM

UPDATE: It has been running much smoother after a good 50 mile drive today, and this afternoon I got the blowing exhaust sorted and it runs sooooo much smoother. I believe the fact it was blowing made it sound much worse than it actually is, but after having cleaned the IACV and taken it out for a good run, all seems happy now!




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