25 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

My 'S' with standard 7.5" 'S' brakes using best-quality discs and Carbon-Metallic pads is simpky superb. I get totally consistant brake pressures at all operating temperatures right up to the point when the discs are glowing red. Even on long tarmac special stages or on road rallies in Welsh lanes they quite simply never fade at all. I do, however, use AP600 brake fluid to prevent fluid boiling. If 7.5" 'S' brakes are not good enough then either you are doing long distance racing on very twisty circuits, you have sub-standard discs or calliper pistons or pads, or you are not driving accurately but are driving totally 'on your brakes' with constant 'dabbing' on the pedal.

Cooperman, are you using a servo with your brakes?

Yes, I do prefer a servo, although Peter Horsborough uses a twin vertical master cylinder on his car (277 BRX as featured in some Mini Spares photos) uses the same 7.5" discs and the Carbon-Metallic pads for rallying with no problems.
I use the 'original' spec discs as sold by Mini Spares.

[minivanman8]

Thanks again cooperman...... That may be another area for improvement.....mine doesn't have a servo on it, just a metal master cylinder. Think I'll order the pads and go from there!

Cheers
Andy

[Gr4h4m]

Due to the torque arm effect, larger discs will give more stopping power. I have found most people prefer the feel of brakes rather than the stopping power. e.g. if you have a long pedal it feels like you have no brakes however, a pedal that is 'right there' makes them feel more powerful. To this end I choose to run 7.9" grooved discs, premium standard Frodo pads, F-Callipers recon'd, twin yellow tag MC, 1275GT RWC with the Mk2 rear bias valve and braided hoses. This setup has worked well even on the track.

[jonny f]

Due to the torque arm effect, larger discs will give more stopping power. I have found most people prefer the feel of brakes rather than the stopping power. e.g. if you have a long pedal it feels like you have no brakes however, a pedal that is 'right there' makes them feel more powerful. To this end I choose to run 7.9" grooved discs, premium standard Frodo pads, F-Callipers recon'd, twin yellow tag MC, 1275GT RWC with the Mk2 rear bias valve and braided hoses. This setup has worked well even on the track.

What do you mean by F-calipers?

[Gr4h4m]

The evil fiesta brakes :)

[Petro1head]

Thanks for the clarification cooperman! When you say 'best quality' discs, which ones do you mean?

Thanks again

Andy

I would be interested in the answer to this as Mini Spares stock two types of 7.5" S disk http://www.minispare...Discs.aspx|Back or http://www.minispare...Discs.aspx|Back

Edited by Petro1head, 04 May 2013 - 12:06 AM.

[JAYO]

IMO, it's up to your personal preference, there's a few quid diff, but I will trust Minispares when they say upgraded as I'm sure that R&D went into making it better over the OE replacement.
Either way I'm sure both will stop you better than an amber traffic light would.

[adam_93rio]

I've been running fiesta brakes with 10" steelies for about a year now and seriously wouldn't bother with any other brakes again. They're a lot better than the original set up, there's a good solid feel to them, they never feel like they're fading when hot etc.
And for the price of them it makes it all even more worthwhile

[Petro1head]

Interesting, Fiesta brakes?

 

Not aware of people using them, do they fit the mini hubs?  What nods are required?  Which model Fiesta do the brakes come off?

 

Questions, questions

Edited by Petro1head, 04 May 2013 - 09:09 AM.

[Skortchio]

In essence 4 pot brake are very nice and shinny but if you're driving fast enough on the road to need them you should probably have your licence taken away.

 

 

This is it essentially.

 

Braking isn't about power of the engine it's about the mass you're trying to stop, the speed it's moving and the amount of friction (grip) available.

 

The mini stock disc brakes are, when in good condition, more than capable of stopping the car from anything up to licence losing speeds without trouble providing the operator is able to apply them correctly and there is grip available to do so - tyres and road surface.

 

Where they fall down is in heat dissipation, not a problem in almost any driving situation unless you're seriously 'having it' around some twisty lanes or on a track day. At this point once the brakes get above optimum temperature and don't have sufficient time to cool before reuse you get fading and less stopping. 

 

It all comes down to application, are you a track day fanatic? Do you regularly drive at excitable speeds, accelerating hard and braking similarly?

If you don't, then your stock brakes are more than up to the job - if, as Cooperman says, well maintained. But a service kit is far cheaper than swanky brakes, however cool they look

[Skortchio]

Interesting, Fiesta brakes?

 

Not aware of people using them, do they fit the mini hubs?  What nods are required?  Which model Fiesta do the brakes come off?

 

Questions, questions

 

You'll need difference drive flanges, a little tweak or two with a drill and a grinder and some new brake lines (different fitments), the calipers are from Mk1&2 Fezzys (possibly mk3 but don't hold me to that).

There's a good video showing the process on youtube also.