Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

1275 Automatic Conversion To Manual


  • Please log in to reply
24 replies to this topic

#16 minilee94

minilee94

    Up Into Fourth

  • Banned from Buying/Selling
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,523 posts
  • Location: Bromley

Posted 15 January 2013 - 10:00 PM

Guessworks oh okay i didn't know that was the proper name :)

#17 liamcrowley

liamcrowley

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 65 posts
  • Location: Co.Cork Ireland

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:57 PM

What exactly is different between the auto engines and manual engines?

Obviously the gearbox but, what bolt holes are different?

Does a manual flywheel housing bolt to an auto engine, or are the holes in a different?

Any build threads out there?

Any help would be much obliged!:P

#18 Tupers

Tupers

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,147 posts
  • Location: Devon

Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:03 AM

What exactly is different between the auto engines and manual engines?

Obviously the gearbox but, what bolt holes are different?

Does a manual flywheel housing bolt to an auto engine, or are the holes in a different?

Any build threads out there?

Any help would be much obliged! :P


Read this. Clicky

#19 liamcrowley

liamcrowley

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 65 posts
  • Location: Co.Cork Ireland

Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:21 AM



What exactly is different between the auto engines and manual engines?

Obviously the gearbox but, what bolt holes are different?

Does a manual flywheel housing bolt to an auto engine, or are the holes in a different?

Any build threads out there?

Any help would be much obliged! :P


Read this. Clicky



Thanks a million!:)

#20 Spitz

Spitz

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,716 posts
  • Location: Saskatchewan

Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:26 PM

I swapped out my Auto for a manual engine/box.

3/8" spacer each side on the engine side of the engine mounts and it's nice and clean install.
Same drive shafts. ( pots )

You don't need to change out the whole pedal box.....just ad the clutch pedal to the existing pedal box after removing the spacer ( obvious when you look at it )

Staying with the auto subframe actually makes it easier to mount the engine etc....as there is now a little more space to get at the bolts.

#21 monkey8414

monkey8414

    Starting My Mini Up

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: Launceston, Cornwall

Posted 07 July 2013 - 03:33 PM

Sorry to be  a pain guys but due to the auto engine in my 1982 998 A+ being completely knackered I have got hold of a 998 A+ manual engine and plan to swap them but, does anyone know the difference between the rover gear change remotes and the older ones? ive seen plenty of rover ones around 1993 for sale but not sure if they will fit mine or not?



#22 SA MINI

SA MINI

    Previously known as shaunarmes.

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,001 posts
  • Location: Cambridgeshire
  • Local Club: yet to join HAMOC

Posted 07 July 2013 - 03:50 PM

Will your auto engine be up for sale ?

#23 Spitz

Spitz

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,716 posts
  • Location: Saskatchewan

Posted 07 July 2013 - 11:34 PM

The switch to rod change was 1974 or so.......so any rod change shifter should work for you.... I think the late 1275 rods may have been a bit shorter/longer(?)


Edited by Spitz, 08 July 2013 - 03:48 AM.


#24 monkey8414

monkey8414

    Starting My Mini Up

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: Launceston, Cornwall

Posted 08 July 2013 - 07:24 AM

Ideal thank for that, sa mini i may sell the engine once i get the new one all up and running, will post up here if i do

#25 Dan

Dan

    On Sabbatical

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 21,354 posts

Posted 08 July 2013 - 08:48 AM

  A selector from around 1993 or later would indeed have longer rods as the engine got moved 1/2" forward in the subframe.  The cotton reel mounts won't last long using these selectors in an earlier car.  You could re-drill the holes to move the selector back a bit as there is loads of clearance around it but then the standard gaiter will be stretched out of shape and the noise proofing pad under it won't fit.






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users