Posted 02 February 2013 - 06:32 PM
It is going to be 36V, but the battery will have a 36V section and a 12V section, so you can imagine how expensive it will be to replace. I believe that is the deliberate intention, make more money from spares. The 12V is retained for the lights and aftermarket electronics etc, with 36V for starting and most other systems. An inverter generates 12V efficiently from the 36V system to avoid the use of a complex dual wound alternator. Apparently, if the 36V section goes flat, the inverter will also top it up from the 12V section to get the car started.
There are several things going badly wrong already. Automotive solid state switches have been in use for a long time, and are designed to cope with transients of 50V to 60V which exist in the 12V system. So, the not too bright component manufacturers have introduced some 80V rated switches for the 36V system, however very basic theory shows that the transients will in fact be up to 180V, so the electronic switches will be failing with monotonous regularity, meaning a new and horrendously expensibe "central junction box" every time.
Also the central junction box idea is plain daft,as it needs far more copper than using distributed switching. For a long time now I have been aware that the average designer of car electrical systems is a complete moron, utterly ignorant of how to to the job safely, reliably and at minimum cost. Pay peanuts, get monkeys, as they say.
They should of course have gone for an industry standard 24V system (actually 28.8V when the battery is fully charged) as used on large vehicles, aircraft, and factories amongst other things. All the bits that are needed are really well developed, safe, reliable, and usually fairly inexpensive. And, as 24V light bulbs are readily available, there is no need at all for a dual voltage system.