16 replies to this topic

[jeffm5150]

Hi all --

I've been trying to remove the left hand side inner pot joint on my rod change transmission. I thought I understood how the factory tool 18G 1240 worked after searching through the forums and reading up on this task. Unfortunately every attempt I make at removing the pot joint fails. I started with simple attempts using wedges and even a slide hammer, to no avail.

I've even gone as far as to make a tool that mimics the factory tool but still I can't get the tool to remove the joint.

The joint and axle are (visually) in excellent condition, and I believe they were new 5 years ago when I had a shop build the transmission for me.

So my question - for those (if there are any) that have actually used the factory tool - do the wedged edges actually force the pot joint away from the aluminum diff output shaft housing, or do the wedged edges simply fill the gap between them? Once installed, you're supposed to "give the tool a sharp blow on it's outside face to release the joint" - I'm assuming this means smacking the outside flat edge of the tool which causes the wedged edges to pry the joint off of the c-clipped splined shaft, using the output shaft case bolt as a load bearing surface. Am I reading this correctly? I've been beating on this thing enough to bend my tool and the joint doesn't budge.

Any other suggestions on removing this joint, short of a sawz-all and diff output shaft replacement?

Attached Files

•  homemade_tool.JPG   56.79K   42 downloads
•  homemade_tool_in_place.JPG   66.16K   48 downloads

[mininuts]

This is the one I use

http://minispares.co....aspx?pid=36467

You slide the tapers behind the joint until a small block on the back side of the tool lines up and touches one of the bolts on the diff. A lightish tap to the outer of the tool levers the pot joint out. The action of hitting the tool against the diff bolt causes the pot to release.

I've never had any problems using the above tool. Decided to buy one after years of using pry bars and hammers.

Apologies for the carp description but its the best way I'm able to describe it. In short buy the proper tool, worth every penny

[lrostoke]

I use a bolster chisel, its never failed.

Put chisel against joint, hit it with a hammer, then hit the bolster sideways (going towards the housing)
joint pops....or it least they do on the 4 cars Ive tried it on

[jeffm5150]

I use a bolster chisel, its never failed.

Put chisel against joint, hit it with a hammer, then hit the bolster sideways (going towards the housing)
joint pops....or it least they do on the 4 cars Ive tried it on

Yeah, that's exactly what I bought. I originally tried your technique with the bolster chisel but the joint just laughed at me. Then I notched it so that it would work similar to the factory tool and I bent the chisel with repeated sideways blows trying to lever the joint off. I'm guessing I shouldn't have to swing my 3lb sledge like a baseball bat, but I'm putting as much force onto the side of the chisel handle as I can ... and as I said the chisel is now bent.

I'm starting to think I'm going to have to cut the output shaft off. I may try the factory tool just to see if actually does work as advertised.

[lrostoke]

jeez, that sounds seriously stuck, I'm not sure my bolster would bend its a pretty thick piece of steel.

[malynch27]

Chisel all the way mate but you cant be afraid to give it some welly! I use a chisel and lump hammer combo and its never failed.

[new_van_man]

yup i second chisel and hammer. Usually take 5 or 6 taps to get it moving. Just need enough force to get the circlip on shaft to compress. I never had any trouble and cvertainly never needed rover tool.

hope it comes offf!

[Vipernoir]

I have the proper Churchill toool, and every so often will come across a joint that doesn't want to come off.
Turn the joint 180° and give it a wiggle.
The circlip can sometimes fall into an extreme position in the groove and no amount of whacking will remove it. Turn the joint and it *ought* to fall back into a sensible place - unless it has been mangled.

[tiger99]

It is really important that the impact load is taken on the botton diff cover bolt, which is why the official tool has a lump on the back which makes contact with that. I can't see if your home made tool has that on or not, but if not, it will not work. Quite often, putting a 1/2" socket on the bolt head, inserting a tyre lever between pot joint and diff, and levering against the socket gets them out, but a forked tool which applies the load on both sides is obviously better. If your tool has not got that feature, try adding a socket or other spacer on the bolt head.

Despite what has been said, you must NOT lever against the diff side cover, as you WILL damage it. The tapered edges of the tool are only to allow it to be inserted, and are NOT for levering. As I said, ALL force must be applied to the bottom diff cover bolt, nowhere else.

There used to be a specific warning in the manual about not levering against the casing.

[jeffm5150]

Yup, I appreciate all of the good advise. I will keep working at it. I haven't used the socket trick yet - that seems like a great idea.

Fingers crossed ...

[jeffm5150]

Update - Nope, the socket trick didn't do me any better. With another 8 hours of beating on this stupid pot joint I still can't get it off of the output shaft. I have drilled out the so-called "freeze-plug" in the inside of the pot joint which at least allows me some more options, the biggest being that I can take off the 3rd member and attempt to press out the axle shaft now.

Wow, I don't wish this ridiculous job on anyone. If I break off any of the splines on my output shaft I have to try to locate a replacement Quaife LSD output shaft. Wish me luck.

[jaydee]

You should be able to apply some penetrating oil between pot joint and output shaft, leave it there overnight, and try harder tomorrow.

[CBJ805T]

I've used it successfully. Wedged it in then hit the side of the tool to lever the pot joint out. I needed to put a socket on a near by bolthead for the tool to react against.

[jeffm5150]

I _finally_ got the pot joint off by drilling out the "freeze plug" inside the pot joint then used a big three finger gear puller to push the pot joint off of the axle. Eventually the c-clip gave way - it looks like it was sent through a punch press. Well, I guess it _was_ sent through a punch press. Enjoy the picture.

Attached Files

•  _MG_3166_.JPG   63.58K   67 downloads

[minibreakdown]

yup i second chisel and hammer. Usually take 5 or 6 taps to get it moving. Just need enough force to get the circlip on shaft to compress. I never had any trouble and cvertainly never needed rover tool.

hope it comes offf!

I have just used this way of getting them off and worked perfectly without putting any leverage force anywhere, so no damage (except for little finger between axle stand and bolster chisel). Would like to point out that this is the first time my son and I have ever tried anything like this and if we can do it this way anybody should be able too. Brilliant description better than the haynes.....