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Headlamp Soldering


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#1 minidave1991-89

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:38 PM

Hi all!
Just about to wire in my new halogens on the mini but was wondering if its 100% necessary to solder the wires to the existing wires or can I just twist them together and insulate? I don't have a soldering iron and don't really have the funds for a decent one at the moment.
Cheers

#2 Artful Dodger

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:40 PM

Nope. Twisting them is a bodge!

Edited by Artful Dodger, 09 February 2013 - 04:41 PM.


#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:42 PM

Solder every time I see so many cars with wires twisted together and taped, besides being a fire risk its unreliable. You can getinline squeeze up connections which is slightly better then twisting the wires together

#4 Noah

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:48 PM

Solder, always.

Soldering irons only £20. You don't need an ultimate one just to solder a few wires, try and get Lead solder though, Lead free doesn't stick half as well.

#5 Tamworthbay

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:52 PM

Solder, always.

Soldering irons only £20. You don't need an ultimate one just to solder a few wires, try and get Lead solder though, Lead free doesn't stick half as well.

Cor must be posh round your way if you are forking out twenty quid for a soldering iron. Hundreds on ebay for less than a tenner. this one nearly makes it in under a fiver:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Kit-Fine-Tip-Iron-Stand-Solder-Wire-Spare-Tip-Stand-Desolder-Braid-/121064356759?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item1c2fff7b97&_uhb=1

Can't argue at that price really. Buy one, do it properly.

Edited by Tamworthbay, 09 February 2013 - 04:52 PM.


#6 Noah

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:54 PM


Solder, always.

Soldering irons only £20. You don't need an ultimate one just to solder a few wires, try and get Lead solder though, Lead free doesn't stick half as well.

Cor must be posh round your way if you are forking out twenty quid for a soldering iron. Hundreds on ebay for less than a tenner. this one nearly makes it in under a fiver:

http://www.ebay.co.u...2fff7b97&_uhb=1

Can't argue at that price really. Buy one, do it properly.


I meant £20 for one that will last more than an Hour.

There is a reason its cheap. £20 one will last you the rest of your days if looked after properly and with a Mini you'll need it again.

#7 Tamworthbay

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:58 PM




Solder, always.

Soldering irons only £20. You don't need an ultimate one just to solder a few wires, try and get Lead solder though, Lead free doesn't stick half as well.

Cor must be posh round your way if you are forking out twenty quid for a soldering iron. Hundreds on ebay for less than a tenner. this one nearly makes it in under a fiver:

http://www.ebay.co.u...7b97&_uhb=1

Can't argue at that price really. Buy one, do it properly.


I meant £20 for one that will last more than an Hour.

There is a reason its cheap. £20 one will last you the rest of your days if looked after properly and with a Mini you'll need it again.

I use these at work all the time, if they survive the abuse of hoards of blood crazed teenagers then a mini won't break them. I never fork out on expensive soldering irons, no point. I have one with variable heat for electronics work but even that was less than £20. Save the cash and spend it where it's needed e.g decent spanners. Some tools can be bought cheap and will still last a lifetime, it comes down to experience to know which will and which won't. These will.

#8 mini-luke

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 05:01 PM

The really cheap blue ones they sell in Maplin are OK, I've had one a couple of years

#9 Orange-Phantom

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 05:15 PM

There is an old saying..... do it once, do it properly!

Definitely solder it, you won't have to come back to it rather soon and have to redo it again. Plus your going to introduce extra resistance into the equation by doing what your suggesting.

Tin/Lead solder with flux is the good stuff to use, lead free has a few extra drawbacks. Remember the PS3 and Xbox 360 yellow light/ring of death. That was due to the chips getting hot and unsoldering themselves! Guess what, lead free solder!

#10 jakejakejake1

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:37 PM

While your at it, it would be smart to invest in some heat shrink to go over the joins, its much more durable and neater the tape and will help support the joint and prevent it from breaking.

#11 rally515

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:40 PM

While your at it, it would be smart to invest in some heat shrink to go over the joins, its much more durable and neater the tape and will help support the joint and prevent it from breaking.


I cant high recommend this any more so,as it kept my laptop charger cable good for such a long time now :lol:

#12 MRA

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 10:36 AM

Not one company in the automotive wiring industry will ever solder a joint !

This is because the solder WILL wick up the wire causing a fatigue failure at some time in the cars life, usually very soon.

Twisting is also very bad, as is touching the bare wires with your skin, ie fingers, the acid in your skin will corrode the copper.

Use the correct type of crimp with the correct type of crimper. then heat sealed with glue lined heat shrink.

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 10 February 2013 - 12:06 PM.
missed off "automotive"


#13 Pete649

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 11:29 AM

A lot has been said about solder vs crimping on various other forums.
For instance

http://www.pistonhea...rimp&mid=190269

But I must admit I do sometimes solder where it is more convenient (splicing wires etc.). I am just careful to not let the solder wick up the wire. And I never solder any flying leads.

Edited by Pete649, 10 February 2013 - 11:30 AM.


#14 Orange-Phantom

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 01:25 PM

Crimping is cheaper, easier to check and control, more repeatable and quicker than soldering which is why it is used in automotive wiring looms.

You'll already have lot's of items in your car already which have soldered joints. E.g Electronic Distributor, Car stereo, electronic ignition, etc etc. You don't see them failing in a short space of time.

If there is movement on the wire it'll probably break before the solder which is why it is a very good idea to heat shrink over any joins. Looks a-lot neater as well.

#15 KernowCooper

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 03:05 PM

Not one company in the automotive wiring industry will ever solder a joint !

This is because the solder WILL wick up the wire causing a fatigue failure at some time in the cars life, usually very soon.

Twisting is also very bad, as is touching the bare wires with your skin, ie fingers, the acid in your skin will corrode the copper.

Use the correct type of crimp with the correct type of crimper. then heat sealed with glue lined heat shrink.


Not one automotive company will solder because of time and cost and a solder joint is a better conductive joint then a crimp, and will not fail usually very soon! I have 30years experience in the Automotive industry and the starter connections which are crimped give trouble and the ones which are soldered with lead solder dont .

Edited by KernowCooper, 10 February 2013 - 03:12 PM.





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