17 replies to this topic

[johnyc]

removed my rear subby today. All was going well until at the last minute one of the bolts going into the heelboard sheared off.

I managed to get the subby off the car and now it sticks out of the heel board by about 5mm.

It was moving before it sheared! so there is hope to get it out.

So questions. Apart from soaking it in loads of release oil and trying to work it free with a mole wrench.. What methods can i get this pesky stud out of my captive nut with! I don't want to destroy the captive nut! and right now i dont have a welder.. Unless someone can come to dorchester in dorset with one for me.

Pics to come once i get this pesky phone working...

[dean]

Think you need to find some kind person with a welder. As it moved a bit before it snapped, you maybe able to weld a bolt back on the stub and keep undoing and doing up till you clean the thread to come out.

Other than that it's a bit of butchery and welding

Edited by dean, 09 February 2013 - 06:46 PM.

[Ipod]

Try a stud remover, and soak the broken stud over night,

Edited by Ipod, 09 February 2013 - 06:51 PM.

[johnyc]

Right same thoughts as me then.. Keep soaking with bolt stuff.. Whats the best penetrating oil for this sort of task? I got some 3 in 1 penetrating spray..

[l_jonez]

Plus gas has always worked for me as it's a release agent

[Shifty]

Some freezer spray and these may do it?

http://www.screwfix....mover-set/96028

[Ipod]

Some freezer spray and these may do it?

http://www.screwfix....mover-set/96028

thats for rounded off bolt heads i think shifty...i think this is what is requierd

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ccec721be

[Shifty]

I've used mine on studs before, tap them on and they grip ok. The stud removers can be a bit wimpy for rusted ones.

[johnyc]

ooo that stud extractor tool looks mint!.. Gonna need a welder anyway just poked a hole through my heel board..... hehehe... funfun..

[johnyc]

Do people think this will work?

[tiger99]

Yes, probably, but as the heelboard is rusty in this case, the repair section will come with new captive nuts so it is irrelevant. But in the general case of a rusted bolt, the method is useful.

If you use that trick on something like a broken cylinder head stud, where it would also be useful, just remember to make a cover for the entire engine block (sheet of thin metal with one hole in it to expose the broken stud only) so that no weld spatter attaches itself to the gasket face or the cylinder bores!

[The Matt]

I don't think the OP says the heelboard is being replaced? Just that the bolt snapped.

I'd soak it with release agent, weld a nut onto the back of it and try that. A mate with a welder is a very handy thing. The penetrating fluid and the heat from welding may help loosed things up a little. Another thing I've done in the past (I wouldn't reeeeeeeally recomment this bit) is drill a little hole in the closing panel above the captive nuts (from inside the car) and soak the heck out of the bolts with plus gas, duck oil, release agent or whatever.

[johnyc]

The hole in the heel boards tiny so im gonna just clean it back to metal and get a weld over it.. I see what you mean about making a thin sheet to protect I will use that when i give it a go..

[johnyc]

Is it easy to cut a small section out from inside the car?.. I have a dremel that may help with that..

[Tamworthbay]

Is it easy to cut a small section out from inside the car?.. I have a dremel that may help with that..

Not where the captive nuts are. They are hidden away in the bottom of the companion bins.