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Best Penetrating Oil


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#1 danny19boy86

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:25 PM

just wondering what the best penetrating oil people have used. my mini has lots of rusty bolts that ive snaped even after wd40 soaked for weeks.

#2 L400RAS

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:27 PM

plus gas is good

#3 Noah

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:27 PM

Sometimes bolts are un-avoidable to snap if they've been there that long.

Even with WD40, the only way is to replace them with stainless ones.

#4 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:28 PM

Another vote for 'Plus-Gas'.
WD40 is not a penetrating oil, it is a lubricant.
Be a bit careful when changing to stainless steel bolts. They are fine for replacing bolts which are not highly-loaded, but for suspension and engine the SS ones can be too weak.

Edited by Cooperman, 14 February 2013 - 07:29 PM.


#5 Spitz

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:30 PM

Taken from another forum ( although I already knew WD40 was pretty useless as a penetrating oil )

"They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
[color=blue !important][color=blue !important]Liquid [color=blue !important]Wrench[/color][/color][/color] ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test."

#6 Noah

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:31 PM

Another vote for 'Plus-Gas'.
WD40 is not a penetrating oil, it is a lubricant.
Be a bit careful when changing to stainless steel bolts. They are fine for replacing bolts which are not highly-loaded, but for suspension and engine the SS ones can be too weak.


In that case when re-assembling the new ones, put some multi-purpose grease on the threads :)

#7 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:35 PM

Hi Noah,

I usually use a light grease on the threads in certain places.
The problem with SS bolts is that some have very poor ultimate shear strength and, unlike a normal bolt which will have its grade marked on the head (normally), SS ones don't, so if you use them on, for example, the front suspension, you could have a failure which would be a 'bit of a nuisance'!

#8 Noah

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:38 PM

Hi Noah,

I usually use a light grease on the threads in certain places.
The problem with SS bolts is that some have very poor ultimate shear strength and, unlike a normal bolt which will have its grade marked on the head (normally), SS ones don't, so if you use them on, for example, the front suspension, you could have a failure which would be a 'bit of a nuisance'!


A bit? :P...Wheel flys past at 60 ;D

#9 mini_in_progress

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:50 PM

id use zinc coated high tensile steal ones there stronger and cheaper and wont rust.......(as easy!)

#10 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:52 PM


Hi Noah,

I usually use a light grease on the threads in certain places.
The problem with SS bolts is that some have very poor ultimate shear strength and, unlike a normal bolt which will have its grade marked on the head (normally), SS ones don't, so if you use them on, for example, the front suspension, you could have a failure which would be a 'bit of a nuisance'!


A bit? :P...Wheel flys past at 60 ;D


The very early Minis used to suffer from wheel failure and after about 18 months or so stronger wheels were fitted. However, when my Mini had its engine out, back in about 1963, for some mods to be done I borrowed an early Mini traveller from a good friend. I was happily going along the road at about 60 (almost flat out for an 850 Traveller) when the right front wheel sheard off over the studs and made its way intoi the RH ditch. We retrieved the wheel, fitted the spare and continued! My friend bought a new set of wheels the next week.

#11 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:53 PM

id use zinc coated high tensile steal ones there stronger and cheaper and wont rust.......(as easy!)


That's what I always use. Buy them from Namrick Ltd.

#12 mini_in_progress

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:57 PM


id use zinc coated high tensile steal ones there stronger and cheaper and wont rust.......(as easy!)


That's what I always use. Buy them from Namrick Ltd.


i get mine from butlers a local fastners, if you only wanted a couple then normally a donation toward coffee and buiscuts buys you them



EDIT, just checked out http://www.namrick.c...__Nuts__15.html
and its very well priced, cheers for the info cooperman, now we need a list of bolt sizes :P

Edited by mini_in_progress, 14 February 2013 - 08:02 PM.


#13 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:08 PM



id use zinc coated high tensile steal ones there stronger and cheaper and wont rust.......(as easy!)


That's what I always use. Buy them from Namrick Ltd.


i get mine from butlers a local fastners, if you only wanted a couple then normally a donation toward coffee and buiscuts buys you them



EDIT, just checked out http://www.namrick.c...__Nuts__15.html
and its very well priced, cheers for the info cooperman, now we need a list of bolt sizes :P


Every so often I buy one of the UNF nut & bolt sets as these are very good value. Then I add a few 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" UNF bolts and set-screws plus a few 5/16" & 3/8" UNC ones for things like clutch cover, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder, etc. Then I get any special ones, like the front tie-bar bolts, from Mini Spares.

#14 Mrpeanut

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 08:49 PM

Toolstation own brand is superb. Their carb cleaner is brilliant too. Both only a few quid a can.

#15 finch661

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 09:54 AM

Plus Gas or halfords shock and unlock! Very handy stuff!




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