
Best Penetrating Oil
#16
Posted 15 February 2013 - 10:05 AM
#17
Posted 15 February 2013 - 03:15 PM
But then again a lot of the fasteners on my car are very rusty and I don't know if any other the other brands would have faired any better.
#18
Posted 15 February 2013 - 04:17 PM
#19
Posted 22 June 2013 - 10:10 AM
I use copper ease or similar when refitting nuts / bolts that will subject to moisture and / corrosion. If there's any bare threads showing through the nut wipe some on there as well. The outside of the nuts and bolts may corrode afterwards but the threads will stay clear. 20 years on and they still come apart easily on my classic.
#20
Posted 22 June 2013 - 10:35 AM
Sometimes bolts are un-avoidable to snap if they've been there that long.
Even with WD40, the only way is to replace them with stainless ones.
Be very careful with SS, they have a habit of "firing up", particularly when both fitments are SS.
We build equipment using all SS indents and always use an anti seize compound that's name escapes me for the moment, but is NOT copper slip.
In the absence of anything else, a little drop of diesel can work well.
Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 22 June 2013 - 10:37 AM.
#21
Posted 22 June 2013 - 11:21 AM
Sometimes bolts are un-avoidable to snap if they've been there that long.
Even with WD40, the only way is to replace them with stainless ones.
Here we go again.
Do NOT use stainless steel bolts on your car. The greatest bi mettalic corrosion you can get between disimilar metals in salt water is SS/ mild steel, 1.2v. So if you want a pile of shiny bolts lying among a pile of ferrous oxide, bolt your mini together with SS bolts.
#22
Posted 22 June 2013 - 11:28 AM
Also the grades of stain RESISTANT steel that actually don't rust in normal use are often too brittle to hold anything substantial or important. Stainless that is strong enough to do the job will still corrode eventually and has quite a matte appearance. The more chrome you add to make it shiny the more it behaves like chrome.
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