17 replies to this topic

[Bondbill2k2]

Hi there ,im new to these forums and have recently brought myself a H reg checkmate, it was cheap but not bad condition beside sill rust and the engine wasnt starting which didnt seem much a problem.

Now the problem is the plugs arnt sparking, i have renewed all the electronics, ignition coil,plugs,HT leads, distrubtor cap and condensor and rotor arm but still none, if i short the points i get a spark but no current seems to pass the rotor arm with no current reaching the leads or plugs.

Could anyone please help me as its really starting to do my head in??

Ps- yes i am faily new to this if your wondering

[Pavel]

Have you renewed the points themselves? Did you make sure you got the right ignition coil? Your car should have a ballasted system.

[Bondbill2k2]

Have you renewed the points themselves? Did you make sure you got the right ignition coil? Your car should have a ballasted system.

I believe is the right one, how can i tell? 1.5 ohm i think is or summin.

Yes somone tryed to start it just before we did but only renewd points a month or 2 ago

Also the engine is turning over,flying over just no spark

[Pavel]

Work through it logically then:

If you get a spark at the points everything before the points should be alright. If you don't get a spark at the leads, then chances are its the rotor arm or dizzy cap. I know you've replaced them but sometimes a new part will be knackered!! I'd wait to see if any of the experts have some more words of wisdom on this issue, and then try replacing the rotor arm and cap (perhaps if you got a mate with a mini just swap it over to check rather than buying new ones again).
It may be obvious but did you get the right rotor arm and cap for your distributor?
If you have a resistance meter (ohmmeter) then you could play around and see where there's a break in the circuit.

[Bondbill2k2]

What distrubtor cap and rotor should i get? Any particular one i should ask for?

Looking in haynes looks liek there are a few differnt ones so curious if i have wrong one

[Dan]

Lucas ones.

There's no point looking for current at the rotor arm with the cap off as there won't be any, and there's no point anyway since the voltage in the HT side of the ignition system will blow your meter to pieces. Do you have some spark testers? Stick one in the coil ht lead and connect everything up to see if there's power at the HT side at all. The cap needs to be on and everything hooked up for the distributor to work properly. Check inside the cap, it's not unknown for new caps to be missing the carbon post in the center.

Is the starting bypass system in place properly? The white/yellow lead needs to be connected to the coil positive along with the pink/white, and the other end of the white/yellow to the bypass terminal at the solenoid or else there won't be enough juice while the starter is running to get a jolt out of the coil.

Edited by Dan, 14 April 2006 - 07:07 PM.

[Bondbill2k2]

Lucas ones.

There's no point looking for current at the rotor arm with the cap off as there won't be any, and there's no point anyway since the voltage in the HT side of the ignition system will blow your meter to pieces. Do you have some spark testers? Stick one in the coil ht lead and connect everything up to see if there's power at the HT side at all. The cap needs to be on and everything hooked up for the distributor to work properly. Check inside the cap, it's not unknown for new caps to be missing the carbon post in the center.

Is the starting bypass system in place properly? The white/yellow lead needs to be connected to the coil positive along with the pink/white, and the other end of the white/yellow to the bypass terminal at the solenoid or else there won't be enough juice while the starter is running to get a jolt out of the coil.

Dam it , how stupid i feel got it running now, was a immobalisor switch i needed to flick, i was never told about this when i brought the car 2nd hand and only had it for just under a week, It was hidden and had a fog light pickture on the switch, well first time heared it running and sound lovely no blowing firing correct order and perfect

[Pavel]

Glad you got it sorted, and that it was something so easy. Believe me replacing all the ignition components only did your car good, so enjoy

[Bondbill2k2]

Glad you got it sorted, and that it was something so easy. Believe me replacing all the ignition components only did your car good, so enjoy

Yea very true i know, seems running nice ,few more things to do and few more parts to get done, how mcuh would replacing a A - post be?

As in buying new one and labour (fitting it) overall cost me?

[Dan]

Do you mean A post or A panel?

A post, lots and lots. Very structural.

A panel, not much at all.

It would be much more economical to repair a rotten A post rather than replace the whole doorframe.

[Bondbill2k2]

Do you mean A post or A panel?

A post, lots and lots. Very structural.

A panel, not much at all.

It would be much more economical to repair a rotten A post rather than replace the whole doorframe.

\
I think i may be wrong, i prob need to replace the A-panel,

This area circled is where i need to replace,the brown is where rust is bad, could i replace this cheap?



If so,how much?

[Dan]

Yeah that's just an A-panel probably. There may be some damage spread to the post underneath but probably not much if it hasn't been like that too long. Most garages will do that for less than a couple of hundred, the panel is cheap and fitting it doesn't take long but if there is damage to repair under it then it will take longer. Then there's paint as well of course and matching black is horrible. I think Icklemini is our regular here who does a lot of these, he'll give you a better idea of price.

I had a Checkmate, very cool car. Wish I hadn't sold it really.

(might want to get some air in that tyre! )

Edited by Dan, 14 April 2006 - 11:15 PM.

[Bondbill2k2]

Yeah that's just an A-panel probably. There may be some damage spread to the post underneath but probably not much if it hasn't been like that too long. Most garages will do that for less than a couple of hundred, the panel is cheap and fitting it doesn't take long but if there is damage to repair under it then it will take longer. Then there's paint as well of course and matching black is horrible. I think Icklemini is our regular here who does a lot of these, he'll give you a better idea of price.

I had a Checkmate, very cool car. Wish I hadn't sold it really.

(might want to get some air in that tyre! )

EEPPP expensive,well dads mate owns garage and may be able to do it for me anyways. Lol had all new tyres fitted and they are 3quarters inch wider than those ones yesterday, 90quid for all 4 and fitted. Trying to keep a budget around 600quid, thats buying car renewing electrics and brakes replacing sills and A panel,engine mounts and bushes and jst spraying it with a can for now until can afford full respray later in year (and wen do this i will replace any other panels)

The checkmate was a great buy at 180 with minlites already fitted and a sony sound system , oh and runs lovely now

[Dan]

Minilites? Nope, Rover Alloys. Standard on Checkmate (so don't let your insurer bump your premium for them).

It might not be that much, could only be £100 if it's just the one panel to do and no repairing. There's very little welding on an A panel. Search the technical section about it, loads of people have been quoted on here for it.

Sills will cost you a fair bit more though.

[Bondbill2k2]

well thanks for help ill look around first and see if mate can do it seein as so pricy