26 replies to this topic

[miniboo]

yeah it could do.

check the tension on the fan belt

and also the fan obviously.

generally mini's do this...fix one thing find 2 more!!

[simonh]

Fan belt is fine. max 1/2 of an inch of play, maybe a little less. there are 6 inline fuses behind the air filter, one is busted but from what little sense i can make of the haynes wiring info, i think this is to do with the main head lights (any one else out there know if the solid thick brown wire is actually head lights based???? it comes through bulk head into the (busted) fuse then disappears back under the bulk head sound proofing stuff) Am off to halfords now to buy a new one, and fit that, if that doesnt sort it am thinking of buying another 5 inlines and replacing the lot just to make sure i've not damaged one. as for the hazard buzzing noise, i've located what I think is the hazard/indicator relay in the dash but discovered two wires in the same area that are not attached to anything, on is black and white and the other is green and brown, again, any one got an ideas? Off to halfords now!

[Sprocket]

Brown only usualy means its a dirrect supply from the battery and could feed any number of different things

[Big_Adam]

if the lights stay on a little then the battire may be low. wouldn't worrie about it too much my mini el gordo the er.......red light stays on until i give the engine a rev still works fine tho.

[simonh]

the phrase its gets from bad to worse springs to mind!!!! despite spending the day on the car with my girlfriends dad, temp/petrol guage fault along with no oil warning light at all and batt warning light coming on after a few mins is still not cured. To add to this i now have no side or head lights! if i turn the lights on, side or dipped, the dials illuminate and main beam blue dash light comes on but not the lights themselves. switch main bean stalk forward to on position and nothing happens but pull stalk back to flash and the side lights come on! if however you put the lights switch whilst holding the stalk in the flash position then nothing happens. all indicators and hazards work, stop and tail and reverse lights also work. As does the horn. In order to try fix initial fault i have tested every fuse and replace those that looked corroded. my girlfriends dad noticed two wires on the left at the front that had just been twisted together so he soldered them properly, they are green/white to green and black to black. I believe these to be for the left hand indicator, can anyone confirm this and should they be green/white to green and black to black? as for the bullet connected wires behind the grill i have as follows, red/blue to red/blue X 2 red to red/white on the left and red to red/black on the right. blue/white to blue/white X 2 and then two blacks connecting into 1 black with a double connector. does this sound right?

[simonh]

Im struggling guys! :'( Managed to get the head lights back up, Bad earth on the bullet connectors behind the grill! As for the initial problem, no temp gauge, or oil or batt light at ignition, petrol gauge only going to half way (just filled it to make 100% sure!) and the batt light coming after a few seconds and not going off again, I really haven't a clue! I've had a multi-meter on the batt and with the engine off its showing 12V, engine running its showing about 14v. Like I said earlier the fan belt is fine. I've just taken the console out of the dash and all connections there look good. HELP!!!! PLEASE!!!!!! does anyone know what on earth i could have dislodged/drowned in rad water, whilst sorting the bypass hose out that effectivley has disabled the right console?

[pikey7]

the petrol gauge playing up is relatively normal. They all go eventually. You need to clean or replace the sender in the tnk, (so a job to do when you haven't just filled it up!).

As for the temp/oil gauge, clean the contacts on the two senders on the engine (temp top right on the head, oil middle left). Check your alternator connector too. I'm relatively sure they all come off the same harness that goes under the slam panel, so check the connectors under there too. Try that, and see how it gets on.

[simonh]

Some one has suggested to me, that although the multimeter is showing that the alternator is putting charge back in the battery, some thing internal on the altenator such as a diode may be faulty and causing these problems. Does any one have any opinions? Can a faulty alternator still charge a battery and cause the problems i listed before?

[pikey7]

to be honest, I'm don't see how it can be at 12v standing, and 14v running, and have an alternator problem. The guy who will know is Icklemini. He's given me good advice on alternators in the past......

[simonh]

its working again!!!!! had to nip out in it earlier and noticed fuel guage on full and temp guage back to normal, batt warning light came on and gauges, dropped this happened a couple of times, then stayed as it should for about 3 miles. pulled over, swiched off and started it again and bingo, ignition lights and gauges as they should be!!!! still have no idea what was causing it though! several test drives later and its still behaving itself!

[miniboo]

sounds like dodgy connections to me.

[TheMoleSex]

would recommend looking at ur terminals connecting your battery as well - that does funny things to gauges etc. mine were loose on my old 94 mayfair and that played havok with loads of different bits and pieces - make sure their tight and good.