

What Grease.
Started by
robminibcy
, Mar 12 2013 07:16 PM
18 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 12 March 2013 - 10:34 PM
Yes but you can get it gift wrapped

#17
Posted 13 March 2013 - 12:57 PM
DO NOT use silicone grease on ant mechanical parts such as track rod ends, as has been suggested. It has very poor lubricating qualities compared to LM. You can sometimes top up the grease in a track rod end, as new rubber boots are available, however you will not get much to where it is needed.
Silicone grease, and even then only a carefully chosen type, should only be used when assembling brake cylinders when you are using silicone fluid. It is a very bad idea to have it anywhere near your car except in that special case, as the slightest hint of it on bodywork will make any minor repainting that becomes necessary a complete misery. It is virtually impossible to get rid of traces of silicone once it is there.
Also, NEVER use silicone to lubricate switches, as it breaks down due to the minor sparking every time the switch is operated and soon forms a hard and insulating layer of silicon dioxide. NEVER get it near a motor commutator.
Sometimes, cheapest is actually best, and Castrol LM will do everything including all suspension pivots on a Mini, except CVs and pot joints which MUST use ONLY proper CV grease, originally Duckhams Molybentone, however the improved formulation for any modern car will also be ok, but don't mix them. There is advantage in using graphite grease on a few things like the clutch operating plunger and possibly door hinges etc, but LM will do there too, it will just not last as long. When the doors start to squeak you just need to apply more. Oh, and ONLY water pump grease if you have an ancient Mini with greasable pump.
Silicone grease, and even then only a carefully chosen type, should only be used when assembling brake cylinders when you are using silicone fluid. It is a very bad idea to have it anywhere near your car except in that special case, as the slightest hint of it on bodywork will make any minor repainting that becomes necessary a complete misery. It is virtually impossible to get rid of traces of silicone once it is there.
Also, NEVER use silicone to lubricate switches, as it breaks down due to the minor sparking every time the switch is operated and soon forms a hard and insulating layer of silicon dioxide. NEVER get it near a motor commutator.
Sometimes, cheapest is actually best, and Castrol LM will do everything including all suspension pivots on a Mini, except CVs and pot joints which MUST use ONLY proper CV grease, originally Duckhams Molybentone, however the improved formulation for any modern car will also be ok, but don't mix them. There is advantage in using graphite grease on a few things like the clutch operating plunger and possibly door hinges etc, but LM will do there too, it will just not last as long. When the doors start to squeak you just need to apply more. Oh, and ONLY water pump grease if you have an ancient Mini with greasable pump.
Edited by tiger99, 13 March 2013 - 01:01 PM.
#18
Posted 13 March 2013 - 03:29 PM
Just to add also that if topping up a TRE is needed, then contrary to what was written before it very much could hurt to add silicone grease to it. The silicone would not be compatible with the mineral/lithium grease already present. So if you are going to try to squeeze some in, use a lithium grease. And as Tiger says the silicone grease would be dangerously incompatible with mineral brake fluid, brakes are either silicone or mineral systems and not both. Use red rubber grease or brake fluid when assembling brake parts in a mineral fluid system. Silicone grease should be used with silicone fluid.
#19
Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:53 PM
Also I would not advise using brake fluid of any type to build up brake assemblies, such as master cylinders etc. The brake fluid offers very little in the way of lubrication, proper brake seal grease, ie red grease is ideal and relatively cheap to buy when compared to replacement sets of seals, and often the damage will NOT be obvious.
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