Good call, turns out the tear drop mounts where shot!
Edited by Elliskwleisk, 16 June 2014 - 09:17 AM.
Steering & Handling Problems...
Started by
Elliskwleisk
, Apr 06 2013 11:47 AM
Best Answer tiger99 , 07 April 2013 - 02:14 PM
Whatever you do next, do not drive the car with an overheating bearing. It will fail, and most probably spectacularly.
I don't know if you used genuine Timken bearings. SKF are also good, if you can get them in the size, but beware of anything else, which is mostly dangerously defective Chinese junk, as we keep seeing on this forum. It is a waste of time and money to use non-genuine bearings, as well as often being dangerous. Yes, I do know that genuine Timkens are expensive, but what is your time and trouble, or your life worth?
Now for the cause of the overheating. You will have fitted the bearings carefully, and greased them properly, so we need to consider that the most likely thing is that the preload is wrong. Actually, if taper rollers, there should be no preload, only slight end float, but a minimal amount of preload is normal on ball bearings. Minis could be using either type.
Excessive preload means that the bearing spacer is incorrect or missing, the outer races are not seated correctly in the hub (e.g. due to dirt), or the bearings have been machined wrongly, which sadly is the most likely these days. Not all bearings have a spacer, on some the inner races protrude to give the same effect, but in every case the complete bearing set must be used together, as they are machined individually. So, you can't use the old spacer with new bearings, or mix a pair of spacerless bearings with another pair.
Please check the stub axle for signs of severe overheating (blue colour) when you strip the bearing, which you inevitably will have to do. If the axle has been overheated, please change it for safety's sake.
Oh, and if you can establish that you have done nothing wrong, take the bearings back to the supplier and demand at least your money back. In my opinion you are entitled to compensation for wasted time too, but I am not a lawyer. If they refuse to give you a refund, just mention Trading Standards. They can get into all sorts of very serious trouble for supplying dangerously defective goods.
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20 replies to this topic
#16
Elliskwleisk
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Posted 08 April 2013 - 06:10 PM
#17
Elliskwleisk
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Posted 09 April 2013 - 09:03 PM
Also what torque should I put the rear timken taper bearings too? And is there any other things I should take in to account when fitting?
#18
tiger99
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Posted 09 April 2013 - 09:53 PM
The rear bearings must not go tight when torqued up. If any of them has been tightened to the point of being stiff, it has been damaged by "Brinelling" and needs to be changed, so you don't want to to that with the new Timkens!
So, make sure that the new outers are fully home in the hub (a few hard taps all round with a brass drift is advisable), the new inner inner (if you see what I mean) is fully seated on the stub axle (again, use the brass drift), and the matching spacer (if used, I think new Timkens will be spacerless) is in place. Fit hub on to spindle, put inner outer bearing and washer on (all bearings greased of course), and tighten nut with fingers, spinning hub as you do. It should spin freely. Now nip it up gently with a spanner or socket, to say 5 lb ft, it should still spin freely. Then 10 lb ft, and if it is still free, it is certain that the dimensions are all correct, so it should be safe to go to the full 60 lb ft (81 Nm), and then to the next split pin hole. It should still spin freely, but very slight drag is probably ok as long as you can still turn it with a finger.
If it goes tight at any stage, please stop and find out why before continuing.
So, make sure that the new outers are fully home in the hub (a few hard taps all round with a brass drift is advisable), the new inner inner (if you see what I mean) is fully seated on the stub axle (again, use the brass drift), and the matching spacer (if used, I think new Timkens will be spacerless) is in place. Fit hub on to spindle, put inner outer bearing and washer on (all bearings greased of course), and tighten nut with fingers, spinning hub as you do. It should spin freely. Now nip it up gently with a spanner or socket, to say 5 lb ft, it should still spin freely. Then 10 lb ft, and if it is still free, it is certain that the dimensions are all correct, so it should be safe to go to the full 60 lb ft (81 Nm), and then to the next split pin hole. It should still spin freely, but very slight drag is probably ok as long as you can still turn it with a finger.
If it goes tight at any stage, please stop and find out why before continuing.
#19
Elliskwleisk
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Posted 09 April 2013 - 10:34 PM
Okay thanks a lot hopefully ill do that on Thursday. Back to the steering rack - With both front wheels off the ground and turned side to side should the rack make a 'rough bearing like' sound?
Edited by Elliskwleisk, 16 June 2014 - 09:21 AM.
#20
Carlos W
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Mine is purple, but I have been told that's normal
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Posted 09 April 2013 - 10:42 PM
Okay thanks a lot hopefully ill do that on Thursday. Back to the steering rack for the umpteenth time... With both front wheels off the ground and turned side to side should the rack make a 'rough bearing like' sound?
No!
It should be smooth!
#21
Elliskwleisk
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Posted 09 April 2013 - 10:43 PM
Not to bring up an old thread but I just stumbled across this and thought I may as well clear it up!
The steering rack was shot to pieces.
The front tear drop mounts where shot which lead to flexing and cracking of the floor around the rear mount of the front subframe.
Both rear wheel bearings were replaced with timken items. Never had a problem since and the car has done several thousand miles.
All rear subframe bushes had slight play in them.
Absolute pain but nice to finally know.
Edited by Elliskwleisk, 16 June 2014 - 09:21 AM.
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