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Reversing Light Stays On?


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#16 lrostoke

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 08:07 AM

probably coincidence known problem with wipers its the switch on the motor goes dodgy generally

 

http://www.minispare...ks/520160A.aspx?


Edited by lrostoke, 01 May 2013 - 08:08 AM.


#17 JackF

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 02:17 PM

Still no luck with regards to the reversing light issue, infact its worse.
When selecting reverse the sidelights come on back and front. Do they share a relay or anything? Its so strange. And I am stumped.

#18 Ethel

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 02:28 PM

That will be a rear earthing problem, the reverse light staying on is likely the switch on the gear selector.



#19 JackF

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 02:34 PM

I suppose I best find the time to remove the fuel tank, and start finding some earths.

#20 Ethel

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 02:39 PM

Current has to flow through a bulb to light it, it can do so in either direction. If the earth is poor, instead of flowing to earth from one bulb it flows up the earth wire of another bulb and lights it, if there is a path to earth on the, usual, supply side. With the sidelight circuit that will be via another bulb (front sidelight) and its earth. The reverse light is a little odd, the switch should block the path to earth for reversed current, which suggests broken insulation and an earth somewhere between the switch and the reverse lights. It could be the switch itself earthing into the housing.

 

 

pps. if it's still doing it with the bulbs out, it suggests there's some nastiness going on in the bulb holder(s).



#21 JackF

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:07 AM

Ok, after much headscratching, I've drained the fuel tank and remoced it then cleaned up all of connections at the back of the rear light clusters.
I think I've been an idiot.
The wiring loom for the rear runs above the passenger windows and down the pillars, right?

If I am correct, I replaced the seals gor the rear opening quaterlights a few weeks back, and put in a new hole for the catch. I think I've screwed the loom. What's the best thing to do next? Help greatly appreciated!

#22 Dan

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:15 AM

  Disconnect the two looms at the bulkhead where they join, tie some strong cord around the end of the rear loom, release the wiring to the interior lamp, and pull the loom back into the boot a little way.  Just enough to see the area you may have damaged.  If it is damaged, strip the loom wrap and re-insulate each core if there isn't a lot of damage or cut the wires, strip the ends and crimp/solder/heatshrink the damage out if it's mullered.  Then retape the loom and use the cord you tied on at the bulkhead to pull it back into place gently (don't yank on it, there are sharp edges everywhere and you might pull the plugs off at the front).  Hopefully the tank is still out, although you can just about work above the top of it.  I would explain to you how to test each core for damage using a meter so you don't have to pull it all out for a look but to be honest it's just as much work to test it as it is to pull it back a bit.

 

  Oh and remove the window catch screws before you start!


Edited by Dan, 06 May 2013 - 10:15 AM.


#23 JackF

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 11:09 AM

  Disconnect the two looms at the bulkhead where they join, tie some strong cord around the end of the rear loom, release the wiring to the interior lamp, and pull the loom back into the boot a little way.  Just enough to see the area you may have damaged.  If it is damaged, strip the loom wrap and re-insulate each core if there isn't a lot of damage or cut the wires, strip the ends and crimp/solder/heatshrink the damage out if it's mullered.  Then retape the loom and use the cord you tied on at the bulkhead to pull it back into place gently (don't yank on it, there are sharp edges everywhere and you might pull the plugs off at the front).  Hopefully the tank is still out, although you can just about work above the top of it.  I would explain to you how to test each core for damage using a meter so you don't have to pull it all out for a look but to be honest it's just as much work to test it as it is to pull it back a bit.
 
  Oh and remove the window catch screws before you start!


The tank is still out!!
This is what I was planning to do, however its nice to have conformation! Many thanks.

#24 JackF

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 03:18 PM

I had sliced 4 out of the six wires in the loom, typical. Now properly fixed and all lights work! Even had chance to rub down and paint the fuel tank!
Many thanks to everyone that suggested things for me.

#25 JackF

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 09:48 PM

980d452454fb767b4b27a09e694555ad_zps2d64

 

I feel like an idiot

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#26 Gulfclubby

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 06:21 AM

Can happen to anyone. Only next time I ask you if you changed ANYTHING, think twice:)



#27 JackF

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 07:49 AM

Can happen to anyone. Only next time I ask you if you changed ANYTHING, think twice:)


I know I know, my fault entirely. My apologies :) It was until we'd identified the fault was in the loom until I remembered!




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