471 replies to this topic

[1984mini25]

Checked it earlier today now it's cooled down and sat overnight, no leaks from the water pump, radiator and hoses the bottom radiator hose being the usual pita in the past, and the coolant level hasn't dropped.

That was until I looked inside. The heater valve and hoses on the heater (top one) are still proving to be a pain.

I've gone through several new jubilee clips, but I'm still having issues with the top one on the heater (the bottom one maybe?). I've moved the clamp on the hose slightly and retightened it. If it's the hoses it's not getting done anytime soon and to replace that short section the heater needs dropping out. Annoying as all the hose connections with the blue connectors pretty much seal without really needing the clips, the heater valve and the new matrix however.

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What's that heater valve? And where is it exactly? It looks like it's on the side of the heater maybe? Daz.

It's a car builders solutions universal 5/8" inline heater valve, fitted to the right of the steering column inline in the heater hose. As I haven't been able to find if the current batch of head mounted mini heater valves don't explode, which has been an ongoing issue for the last 10 years with the replacements.

Interesting, do you operate that manually at the valve then? Or is there a cable I can't see?

I operate it manually. It's 90 degrees for on and off, so I tend to just leave it somewhere in the middle and if it gets too hot I open a window. I did also change the knob to one meant for a guitar/amplifier as I found it fitted and I thought it looked nicer/easier to use up under the dash.

I have still kept the original heater cable (also because it holds the switch panel) and just cable tied it to the heater hose in the engine bay, so if at any point I do find a head mounted heater valve I can swap back to the original setup.

[1984mini25]

I had a few hours in the garage this morning. Managed to drag the other engine out from under the shelving where it's been sat since 2017, drain the oil (that didn't look all that bad considering it's probably 16 years old and was used for running in) removed engine from gearbox and given it a quick clean and flush all the crap that's collected at the bottom.

The rest of that engine is up for grabs if someone makes me an offer for it. It's a rebuilt standard 998, all new bearings and rings, pocketed block and fitted with a 1275 mg metro cam and head (the head might need work) and the reason/s why I'm not fitted and using it are, I already mentioned it could do with a head recon, to swap it over would also mean having to swap the whole exhaust system, carb, ignition, flywheel/starter and cooling system changes. Plus I've had enough fun and games renewing the insurance with the standard engine, I don't need further headaches etc.

So the only bit I'm interested in keeping and using is the gearbox that was fully rebuilt and has had very limited use.

I've had a dig in with the inspection camera and found 19/59 on the diff which according to Guessworks makes it a 3.105.

And, from using Guesswork again looking up the 25's engine number (believe to be original) which is 99HA53P it's supposed to have a standard ratio box with 3.105 diff.
So either Guesswork's info is wrong, or the information stating that the mini25 should have a 2.9 diff is wrong. Either way I'm more confident that going from Guessworks info that it's probably correct and I can use this gearbox without having to pull it all apart and swap the final drives over.

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Edited by 1984mini25, 09 May 2026 - 03:56 PM.

[1984mini25]

Another couple of hours stripping down the gearbox (as far as I'm going to go) in order to remove the central oil pick up and continuing to flush out the crap collected on the bottom. Just as well, as this is what was stuck to the bottom of the pick up. Now I've also never really had a issue with the standard oil pick up setup, so this is now up for sale along with the other engine and I'll swap over once the other box is out. 

 

Also the dif defiantly has 19/59 stamped, so assuming the engine number code is correct, I'll also assume (i'll check) that the speedo drive with also be the same ones. 

 

 

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[1984mini25]

On the 6th of June the bonnet, auxiliaries and cylinder head (because of height restrictions in the garage) were removed, with the engine and gearbox being removed 2 days later. 

 

And 7 weeks later on the 21st July was back in running and driving with a recon gearbox, a hone and new rings, all new bottom end bearings and oil pump (nothing wrong with the old ones but replaced anyway) new cam bearings and followers (2 were slightly pitted and I had a spare new set) a new timing chain/replacement sprockets, all new gaskets and seals where necessary and all primed and painted.

 

While the engine was out, the front subframe was removed, stripped (one of the hi-lows took nearly 2 hours of hammering/prying to free it form the donut upon removal) cleaned, de-rusted, primed and painted. Along with all the suspension components like the hi-lows and top arms. The steering rack removed, cleaned, checked (believe to be the original) and painted and all refitted.

 

The lower bulkhead (crossmemebr and below) along with the inner wings and front valance have all been stripped, rust dealt with (removed/treated) some welds from 2014 ground and cleaned up (couldn't at the time as the subframe was in the way) all primed, painted and top coated. 

 

And without trying to cut corners and including unexpected items like a helicoil kit and hone tool (plus another head gasket that was 'folded' to fit through the letterbox), everything including the painting and oil etc has come to £369 and 40p. 

 

 

I've also done just under 200 miles of running/driving keeping it below 3k and 50mph (although 3k with the 3.1 diff is 60mph) with only a few minor oil leaks (the t piece for the oil pressure gauge) and a coolant weep from the top hose, also the new gear rod oil seal started leaking after 140 miles. 

[1984mini25]

Rather annoyingly I've also recently had my mobile (suddenly decided it would erase everything from the sd card and refuses to recognise since) and the desktop deciding it no longer wanted to power up (conveniently soon after i'd  transferred the pics from my phone before the sd failed) luckily I haven't lost anything, just annoying. 

 

Anyway, the before and after pics of the engine don't look all that different, but one cylinder head removed (had only done 900 to 1000 miles since being fitted) the bores after a quick clean didn't look too bad, no noticeable lip, but as the compression readings and the oil consumption confirmed the rings were shot. 

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Engine ready to come out, not ideal in a single garage with one side up against the wall and the restriction in height, but just about doable. Have to roll the car out of the garage, set the engine crane up, wheel the car back in, jack it up, split the hubs/driveshaft's, remove the engine, and wheel the car back out of the garage to get the engine crane back out (stored in the shed when not needed) 

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Leaving behind a scabby front subframe and engine bay. 

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Edited by 1984mini25, Yesterday, 06:58 PM.

[1984mini25]

Now I had planned on getting the subframe blasted, but the one that did the wheels not that long ago wanted half what a brand new subframe would cost and that was just for the blasting. I did find somewhere else that was more reasonable, but they came up with a excuse that even though they had been in a new unit for 3 months they didn't have their blasting kit set up, and seamed more interested in want to powder coat it (how if they can't prep it properly?) 

 

So power tools and elbow grease it was then. a test section of subframe before removal having been wire brushed and then left overnight with citric acid soaked kitchen roll. 

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With that appearing to work (or as about as good as I'm going to get it) the subframe was removed and stripped in the garden. Which as previously mentioned the hi-lows took some effort to separate (were fitted back in 2012) as up inside the towers where the bump stops were, were quite crusty. 

 

One subframe paper mache with citric acid, kitchen roll and cling film to stop it drying out and left in the sun while I got on with doing other things. 

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[1984mini25]

While that cleaned up most of the subframe, it still left the rather un-assessable inside of the towers. the kitchen roll/citric acid wouldn't really work, so what I did was to stand the the subframe up against the side of the shed with one of the towers in an oil drain pan, and filled that till it was submerged with the citric acid solution and covered it over. Then obviously turned it over when that was side was done to do the inside of the other tower.

 

Witch that done it was given one final going over with the drill/ wire brush combo and given a treatment of Kurust, red oxide primer and several coats of gloss black metal paint. 

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The top arms and hi-lows also got cleaned up and painted. Although the shafts I believe to be the originals showed no noticeable wear, and the knuckle joints are still the Delphi ones I fitted back in about 2016 (se you can get branded stuff that lasts) just filled with fresh grease. 

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The steering rack was removed, cleaned, greased and painted. the garters and track rod ends (also Delphi) were still servable so reused. 

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Edited by 1984mini25, Yesterday, 11:20 PM.