6 replies to this topic

[Scoop77]

Hi, looking for suggestions for a neutral handling set up to start from for track use please. Don't really like the look of the brackets to adjust rear camber what are the other options? I shimmed the rear of my de dion axle kit car.
My car is a 1275 sprint on 12" wheels.
Cheers

Edited by Scoop77, 27 May 2013 - 08:49 AM.

[Artful Dodger]

The rear brackets have been used since the 1970s so have been carefully designed and tested! Best ones are from KAD engineering.

This is the only real way to do this as shims only effect the toe in/out which you want none of on the rear for neuteral handling.

Can't comment personally on set up, but other racers will be along I offer their advice:)

[Scoop77]

No you can shim for camber as well but if racers are using the brackets that good enough for me.
No toe in on the rear? Ok.
Look forward to some more help guys :)

[Artful Dodger]

hope this helps, got it from issue 212 mini magasine, has a 4 page spread on mini set up, dos, dont, whys and whos!!  good read!

 

 

 

that chart should help you set the car up as a benchmark, and then alter to suit your driving style!

[Miniac86]

That's exactly what I've been looking for as well, thanks Dodger.

[Scoop77]

That's great cheers ;)

[adamg1380]

They look fairly sensible, depending on what rubber cones you have, and what tyres will you be running. Both will make a  difference, with road or rally suspension and sticky tyres (like yoko 48s) you will get loads of body roll and need to be at the higher end of -ve camber.

 

The simplest way to tell is to get one of those infr-red plumbers temperature gauges and do it off the tyre temps. Do some laps, get the tyres nice and hot and then take the temps on the inside, middle and outside. If they're hotter on the outside, you need more camber, on the inside you need less. Hotter in the middle means the tyre pressure is too high, on the shoulders means it's too low. It's basically the same principal as looking at tyre wear but a lot quicker - the areas of the tyre that are working hardest get hotter.

 

Edited to add: For the above to work, you want to be on or near the limit on something fairly twisty with both right and left handers.

 

Adjustable rear brackets are the thing, and adjustable on-the-car front arms (mine aren't, but I've got it where I want it now anyway). Also, think about getting plenty of +ve caster on the front, it really helps with minis - you can go a little bit over what it shows above.

Edited by adamg1380, 05 June 2013 - 10:03 AM.