30 replies to this topic

[Calderwood]

Hi there,

 

I posted on here about 2 weeks ago regarding a problem my mini had, being very jerky on acceleration. At first I thought it was clutch related, but on close inspection I could see that the engine steady bushes were very worn, especially on the upper but the gearbox one a bit too. I ordered some polybushes to replace them with, and dropped the car off at my local mechanic (who has done work on minis before, not a kwik-fit or something), as I thought it just beyond my skill at the moment.

 

After taking a closer (and more knowledgeable) look he has phoned me to say that on the upper steady the steady has actually broken away from the bulkhead, presumably the bushes were never changed in the car's 46k miles, and the engine does rock a lot. So my question is, I'm assuming a repair panel will need to be welded on, does anyone sell these(I don't know what it would be called), or will it need to be fabricated? And will this job be engine out, or can it be done with the engine still in?

 

I want to know just so I have some knowledge when talking him, and have a sense of what it will/should cost etc etc.

 

I might add I only bought the Mini a month or so ago, so it is not my neglect that lead to this, but you could blame me for buying it I guess!

 

Thanks

Edited by Calderwood, 30 May 2013 - 07:29 PM.

[rally515]

Its called a top engine steady not a tie bar  , and the part it needs is this: http://www.minisport...40_10_38_9.html

 

He can drill holes in this one and plug weld with a MIG easyly enough with engine in but will have to remove the servo/master cylinder to gain access with a grinder.

 

Heres a few pictures from my current build:

 

 

This is what he will need to remove:

 

Edited by rally515, 30 May 2013 - 04:36 PM.

[Island Mini]

I had this same problem twice. You can either weld a nub onto what's left of the sheared bolt and then use mole grips to screw it out or like I had to the second time drill and retap it. After the second time I bought the updated engine steady from mini sport and been solid as a rock since then!

[Calderwood]

Its called a top engine steady not a tie bar

Well I knew it was one or the other haha, at least it demonstrates my level of knowledge of the subject!

 

Otherwise thanks, both for the link and the advise. Do you know if the dashboard has to come out too? I can see it being labelled a fire hazard? (not a big job I know, but an hour I'd have to pay for).

[rally515]

I would say not to the dash coming out as its welded to the bulkhead crossmember which has a hollow area within which is seperate from the cabin (bar two 4-5 inch holes).

Labour costs might exceed whats being done work wise as mearly stripping it all down to get to that area will take alot of time.

 The brake/clutch systems will have to be re-bled back up also.

 

Its an awkard repair to have to do, could you not strip it down yourself ?

And just to clarify due to island mini's post we are talking about the bulkhead plate ? not the shearing of the bolt on the front area of the steady ?

[Island Mini]

My bad haha ignore me then!

[rally515]

My bad haha ignore me then!

 

 

Its did confues my a tad  , glad i saw that right otherwise id written that for nothing  , if it was the front itd be a damn quick repair in compasison haha

 

Any chance of a picture of the damage calderwood ?

[Calderwood]

Yeh its on the bulkhead. No pictures yet, as it is still with mechanic as we speak, I'll be going down to have a look later, so will post some after that. I could probably strip it myself, but I'm currently at Uni where I don't have a garage (and all my tools, ramps etc), so can't do it at the moment really. I'm getting the feeling this is going to be expensive

[xrocketengineer]

An alternative to avoid welding but it might not save you any work.  I got this from http://www.7ent.com/ since I am in the USA. It is made of very thick stainless.

[rally515]

Just as a idea for a temp repair if moneys tight at the moment and you need the mini is to use an ultimat engine steady ? it mounts from the thermostat across and will steady the engine more than enough.

 

http://www.minisport.../info_EL57.html

 

Heres one fitted:

 

https://sites.google...02122006371.jpg

 

And heres the gap you have one the original with the servo there:

 

http://www.bing.com/...electedIndex=19

[Calderwood]

Thanks both xrocketengineer and rally515 - the bolt on plate is a good idea, but as you suggested, my problem wont really be the welding, it is getting to it, bu thanks all the same. The 'ultimate engine steady' is a good idea rally515, unfortunately the 1275cc version is out of stock, but it is marked as 'ordered', I might have to go with that option at least for a month or so while I can save up to get the real steady done. I would guess the soundproofing and probably the wiper motor would be the only bits that need to be moved out there way for the install.

[rally515]

Thanks both xrocketengineer and rally515 - the bolt on plate is a good idea, but as you suggested, my problem wont really be the welding, it is getting to it, bu thanks all the same. The 'ultimate engine steady' is a good idea rally515, unfortunately the 1275cc version is out of stock, but it is marked as 'ordered', I might have to go with that option at least for a month or so while I can save up to get the real steady done. I would guess the soundproofing and probably the wiper motor would be the only bits that need to be moved out there way for the install.

 

 

Wiper motor ? why would that need moving then

 

The stainless is a good idea and i reckon with some jigery pokery it could be done by yourself without removing the servo system atall.

Might try it on project checkmate

 

As for it being out of stock, get some threaded bar from B&Q and some 3mm sheet steel (mild or stainless), plus some suitable nuts and new bushus and you're back up and running  , easy enough uni project

 

Ohh and for future reference id stick with the original rubber bushes

[Tamworthbay]

Thanks both xrocketengineer and rally515 - the bolt on plate is a good idea, but as you suggested, my problem wont really be the welding, it is getting to it, bu thanks all the same. The 'ultimate engine steady' is a good idea rally515, unfortunately the 1275cc version is out of stock, but it is marked as 'ordered', I might have to go with that option at least for a month or so while I can save up to get the real steady done. I would guess the soundproofing and probably the wiper motor would be the only bits that need to be moved out there way for the install.

I have a brand new one spare in the garage. 99.9% sure its for a 1275. I got it a few months back but can't fit it as I have other plans now on the rad side. I can check it out for you if you are interested.

[sonikk4]

The one thing you will need to take into consideration if you weld on a new bracket is to have a look inside the crossmember from within the car. Check to see if there is any waxoyl or similar product.

 

If so i would suggest you insert a damp rag into the cavity to prevent the waxoyl etc from burning. Very awkward to get to but better that than possible fire.

 

You can see in the top right of this picture where you will need to place the rag

[Calderwood]

Wiper motor ? why would that need moving then

 

 

The stainless is a good idea and i reckon with some jigery pokery it could be done by yourself without removing the servo system atall.

Might try it on project checkmate

 

As for it being out of stock, get some threaded bar from B&Q and some 3mm sheet steel (mild or stainless), plus some suitable nuts and new bushus and you're back up and running  , easy enough uni project

 

Ohh and for future reference id stick with the original rubber bushes

 

I'm running off my mental image of the Mini engine bay, I thought the wiper motor was roughly where that ultimate steady attaches to the bulkhead, guess it is probably higher   . Oh and by moving, I just meant while putting the steady in, not permanently haha.

 

I would have thought the stainless steel bracket would be just as difficult as welding? I have never seen that part of the bulkhead so correct me if I'm wrong, but you would have to make the holes for the bolts surely? xrocketengineer?

 

On a side note; I thought poly bushes where the preferred option? Or will I spark off a debate on that one haha.

 

I have a brand new one spare in the garage. 99.9% sure its for a 1275. I got it a few months back but can't fit it as I have other plans now on the rad side. I can check it out for you if you are interested.

 

Thanks I might just do that, I'll be going to go have a look at the car tomorrow and will make a decision then, so if I go this way I'll send you a PM.

 

The one thing you will need to take into consideration if you weld on a new bracket is to have a look inside the crossmember from within the car. Check to see if there is any waxoyl or similar product.

Thanks for the tip :)

Edited by Calderwood, 30 May 2013 - 07:25 PM.