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Bleeding Brakes Using Gravity Method


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#16 cal844

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 10:29 AM

gravity bleeding is how we bleed brakes at work, much easier, usually we crack the bleed nipples and just let it drain onto a pile of granules (but you can put a section of hose on the nipple and have it flowing into a jar.) on more stubborn vehicles we lock the pedal down with a crowbar or similar, works a treat!


Edited by cal844, 06 June 2013 - 10:32 AM.


#17 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 11:04 AM

gravity bleeding is how we bleed brakes at work, much easier, usually we crack the bleed nipples and just let it drain onto a pile of granules (but you can put a section of hose on the nipple and have it flowing into a jar.) on more stubborn vehicles we lock the pedal down with a crowbar or similar, works a treat!

 

How would the system fill with fluid if the pedal is locked down? Haven't you covered the ports on the master cylinder when the pedal moves away from rest?



#18 cal844

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 12:06 PM

what we do is tighten all connections, then fill the resevoir and pump the pedal up to pressure(put crowbar on the pedal), then crack the bleed nipple under load, this then lets the air escape, now we tighten the nipple and re-fill the system and check the feel of the pedal. 



#19 KernowCooper

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 04:20 PM

Everyone has a method that works for them but the vacuum bleeder or eazybleed works a treat and one can do it really quickly with no mess.



#20 Tamworthbay

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 04:45 PM

Everyone has a method that works for them but the vacuum bleeder or eazybleed works a treat and one can do it really quickly with no mess.


I agree, the eezibleed is brilliant, I have used the gravity method on motorbikes years ago, but the system is much simpler. It can be good for stubborn spongy feel on multi piston bike calipers.

#21 midridge2

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 05:26 PM

what we do is tighten all connections, then fill the resevoir and pump the pedal up to pressure(put crowbar on the pedal), then crack the bleed nipple under load, this then lets the air escape, now we tighten the nipple and re-fill the system and check the feel of the pedal.
is that not the normal way to bleed brakes?

#22 SA MINI

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 10:41 PM

Everyone has a method that works for them but the vacuum bleeder or eazybleed works a treat and one can do it really quickly with no mess.




Agreed

#23 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 11:01 PM

what we do is tighten all connections, then fill the resevoir and pump the pedal up to pressure(put crowbar on the pedal), then crack the bleed nipple under load, this then lets the air escape, now we tighten the nipple and re-fill the system and check the feel of the pedal. 

 

Wouldn't that be normal bleeding but just making hard work of it using a crowbar? You could use someone's leg much more effectively. Magic too, you take the pressure out of the system, the pedal drops, the crowbar slices it's way through Sir's leather.



#24 Gulfclubby

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 11:36 AM

Don't know what crowbars are made of in Indonesia, but they're not sharp round here.



#25 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 04:06 AM

Don't know what crowbars are made of in Indonesia, but they're not sharp round here.

 

Aren't they? Well they wouldn't be a lot of use then would they? I wonder where "round here" is if you have blunt crowbars?CROWBAR.JPG

 

I think you may be confused as to what a crowbar is, but you wouldn't one shoved up your upholstery.


Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 09 June 2013 - 04:09 AM.


#26 Gulfclubby

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 02:25 PM

I know what a crowbar is, thank you. As a hobbyist bladesmith, I may have a different notion of "sharp" though. Tapered? Yes. Sharp? Not even a little bit.



#27 KernowCooper

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 06:02 PM

If I saw a garage using a crowbar wedged up against the seat I'd take the car somewhere else, the method most used is as said 1 bleeding out on the nipples and one inside pumping the pedal. If you have no mates then get a easybleed.



#28 jime17

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:16 PM

one inside pumping the pedal. If you have no mates then get a easybleed.


Ahh takes me back to being ten years old and my dad shouting at me from the rain soaked tarmac while I pushed the pedal on a mk 3 cortina, oblivious to why I was doing it.

Edited by jime17, 09 June 2013 - 07:28 PM.


#29 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 10:47 PM

I know what a crowbar is, thank you. As a hobbyist bladesmith, I may have a different notion of "sharp" though. Tapered? Yes. Sharp? Not even a little bit.

 

I did wonder.

"sharp" is relative.

 

If someone smacked you over the head with that crowbar then the police may describe it as blunt force trauma. If however the "tapered" end happened to catch you behind the ear, then I think it may be referred to as an injury caused by a sharpened object.

 

So, whilst definitions of "sharp" appear to differ (I think your blades are blunt compared to obsidian blades, and you think crowbars are blunt compared to your home produced blades), do you think you can guarantee that the sharp (let's call it the tapered end) of a crown bar couldn't rip a perfectly serviceable seat cover?

That would appear to be what this is all about - in accordance with the posting guidelines....to give sensible advise. 



#30 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 11:09 PM

If I saw a garage using a crowbar wedged up against the seat I'd take the car somewhere else, the method most used is as said 1 bleeding out on the nipples and one inside pumping the pedal. If you have no mates then get a easybleed.

 

^^^^ This. 






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